Month: October 2020

Two nights in Hamilton Island for some re-provisioning and shore time quickly became one night as Bernie wasn’t welcome, and the school holiday party throngs were overwhelming.

So untying our lines at Hamilton Island Marina early, after one nights sleep, the next stop was Cid Harbour one of the most popular charter boat anchorages in the Whitsunday’s. We had been there a few times previously on our first bareboat charter together, and had a fair idea of the place. We drove on in, dropped anchor and had the sunshade straight up and a cup of tea ready. Another yachty swung past and commented on our confident anchoring. Perhaps the practice is paying off, at least compared to the charter fleet who often tentatively anchor and re-anchor and re-anchor and re-anchor. We were pretty chuffed with the feedback!

We spent two nights at Cid Harbour, and even managed to catch up with our friends on their Riveria!

On departure day, leaving the 45 other boats in Cid Harbour we headed North to find a sheltered bay on the mainland. The SE trade winds pushed us up the coast to Double Bay where we were the only boat in a large bay surrounded by the Dryander National Park. Croc country here so no swimming or doggy paddling off the boat; however, some fishing was had and a few “Darts” jumped on Fi’s line, but we didn’t know what they were at the time so threw them back.

The next day we sailed north again through the tricky Gloucester Passage and into Bowen. The passage is shallow in part with several possible routes through the sand banks and reefs, so we timed our passage for high tide. The guide book described the sail into Bowen (after the treacherous passage) as some of the finest sailing on the coast with no waves and trade winds on the beam, and it turned out that way as we sped across the flat aqua water in perfect conditions.

Bowen marina was one of the cheaper ones we have stayed in and had cost appropriate facilities. We found the local shops, big mango, pub and fish shop (fisho’s). The constant SE trade winds showed no sign of abating. We get a little sick of marina’s so we headed into the rainforest again for some land time and Fi and Adrian time, and Bernie had a little holiday at the local kennels for 2 nights.

From here it would be easy to head further north as the SE trades are still blowing, but after our couple of days off the boat in our mountain hide away we decided it was time to turn around and head south. The further north we went the more we would be dependent on the SE trade winds giving way to northerlies before the cyclone season (which is forecast to live up to its name this year with a predicted La Nina system).

Starting early in the morning to take advantage of lighter (southerly) winds we motored from the Bowen Marina to Cape Gloucester resort. We missed this place on the way north, but are unlikely to miss it if we pass by again. Free moorings, white sand, pool, live music, a bar, Bernie friendly and good food… Whats not to like? We enjoyed the trips first pina coladas beside the pool. After a couple of nights here and taking our health into consideration (really good pina coladas) we left and motored south at dawn back to the deserted anchorage at Double Bay.

We hadn’t planned to visit Airlie Beach, the bustling heart of the Whitsundays, where most of the charter boats, helicopter rides, ferries etc are based, but some friends kindly offered us three of their unused nights at the marina. Leaving early again to avoid the worst of the wind, we beat into 15 knots and short steep waves. Addictive handles these conditions better than we do, keeping us mostly dry and the boat is so well balanced we barely needed to steer. It’s always interesting finding the boats internal contents in new and unusual locations after these trips.

We came into the Marina, and realised that its a fantastic place, set up perfectly for yachties and we are happily enjoying the doggy friendly restaurants, the excellent facilities and the lagoon pool!

Our plan is to continue south in the coming days, as the forecast suggests that some northerly winds are coming, so we can sail!

We enjoyed 10 days in and around Mackay and got to know a number of other cruisers who were sitting out the winds in the marina. But as soon as the winds showed signs of moderating we joined the procession of boats heading to Brampton Island a few hours away. It’s shallow water outside Mackay marina and the waves are short, steep and uncomfortable after an extended blow. We motored into the seas to get to deeper water and hopefully calmer conditions. I’m not sure how successful we were but once the sails were set it was fast but bouncy sail to Brampton.

The anchorage at Brampton was close the resort which closed about 8 years ago. A caretaker keeps unwanted people out but does little to stop the encroaching jungle and general dilapidation. It would have been a spectacular spot when it was open, with sheltered beaches, waterside pool and warm turquoise water. Here you can see part of the pools paving has been washed into the pool over years of cyclones, king tides and strong winds.

A stroll to the island’s top lookout gave a great vista north over the Whitsunday Islands. This area offers great sailing with the reef providing protection from ocean swells and short hops between hundreds of sheltered anchorages. We descended the hill through clouds of blue tiger butterflies.

Here you can see the general dilapidation of the resort: curtains, mirrors, art and some furniture all left in place.

Our next stop was Thomas Island about 4 hours to the north. The tides run north-south through this area so we spent the morning chasing tuna whilst we waited for the tide to turn in our favour. The tuna were feeding just off the island but in the end it was a case of the ‘one that got away’ with our line and lure.

We broke our Speed Over Ground record on the way to Thomas, registering 8.8 knots with more than a little help from the tide. The anchorage was sheltered from the south and fringed by white sand beaches and coral reefs. It was made even more prefect when all the other boats left and we enjoyed the island to ourselves.

Our sailing journey had started 3.5 years earlier when we had tried living on a sail boat by chartering a yacht in the Whitsundays (see Fi here helming our charter boat in 2017). The next hop would be to the iconic White Haven Beach which we first visited on our original trip, bringing us full circle. We timed our arrival at the narrow (and infamous) Solway passage for high tide and no tidal flow. Even so there were eddies and small whirlpools where the water was being pushed through the narrow passage… must be an exciting place on a big tide!

White Haven was just I remembered it: beautiful white sand and blue water peeping out from behind a hundred million tourists delivered by boats, seaplanes, and helicopters. We anchored off the the beach where were a number of white tents set up, and set about celebrating our achievement with a champagne lunch, and a little swim.

I noticed a line of large white motor boats steaming directly towards us. As they anchored all around us in their multi million dollar boats I reflected that we must look like real yachties who know the best spots to anchor. It soon transpired that they were here for a wedding in the white tents on the beach. We moved on from Whitehaven to our overnight anchorage further north at Tongue Bay, to get some respite from the sea of humanity.

Northerly winds gave us a rare opportunity at this time of year to explore the southern end of Whitsunday Island. So back through the Solway passage we went again (at high tide!) and headed west towards some beautiful spots. We spent a couple of nights in Turtle Bay catching up with friends, fishing and enjoying the antics of the charter boats. Bernie found a shallow area of water where he could chase fish in the shallows, and would likely still be there if we had not dragged him away.