Sailing & Other Adventures

Month: November 2021

Windy Brighton and Sunny Eastbourne

By Adrian

As we moved east from the Solent the anchorages became more spread out and many of the smaller ones require you to sink into the lovely soft mud at low tide. We were done with mud. At Brighton, however, there is no mud, and promising only a dose of nostalgia as we had both worked there in former lives. The forecast predicted a single day of sturdy sailing weather to make the passage before a week of rambunctious conditions.

We didn’t have enough information to conclude if the Chichester harbour entrance bar would be too dangerous after several days of strong onshore winds and an ebbing tide. So leaving our mooring at first light we surveyed the entrance and decided it was safe to head out as there were no big breaking waves to be seen. It was bouncy and we took it slow to avoid any crockery cracking airborne moments.

Soon the sails were raised with some appropriate reefs and we were zipping along the coast albeit against a knot of tide. Rounding Selsey Bill and entering The Looe (why did Cook give us ‘One Tree Island’ in Australia when he came from a land of such interesting place names – even ‘The New Looe’ would have been preferable) required navigating between a port and starboard marker only a few hundred meters apart. The crab pot marker set right in middle of this tiny channel could hardly have been more maliciously placed.

This looks like a good spot for a crab pot

Fi enjoyed some downstairs time out of the wind. The view from here is surprisingly good under the sails and the added safety of being warm, dry and relatively fresh cannot be understated. Its tiring being on deck in the chilling wind and sea spray but some of the crew find a perverse enjoyment in the elements.

Apparently you can sail through this wind mine which must be an interesting experience. We spied a small yacht on the AIS doing just that. As conditions were getting more rolly we took a direct route to the marina at Brighton.

The marina wall has been designed to reflect the waves back out to amplify the incoming waves. The resulting turmoil with some good tidal flow can make entry quite entertaining. I snapped the photo below of the entrance channel just after we entered (left) and the same channel when we departed (on the right).

The marina is a healthy dog walk from the main pier. Bernie the well travelled dog prefers his beaches with white sand, turquoise water and shallows to chase the fishies. At least we don’t end up with a boat full of pebbles after a walk on the beach here.

Whilst the sea boiled outside the marina we set about revisiting Brighton. It remained much as we remembered it, although the new doughnut on stick was difficult to miss. The touristy pier and beach front look a little tired during the colder months so we spent our time in the little lane ways and cosy pubs.

Brighton turned out to be the place to test mooring lines and our fender configuration. We added to our fender collection and then watched as the wind and wave surges tested them out. After a day watching over the boat as the wind gusted over 40 knots in the marina, we were pleased to return to land and catch up with some former work colleagues for dinner.

More settled weather returned and a gentle drift along the coast was in order. We learned more about tides. Our plan was to have a small amount of tide with us for the whole trip. But a late start meant the tide was already against us and we kept getting further and further behind the changing tide and ended up fighting it all the way. Still, white cliffs, gentle seas and a short distance meant we could meander along and watch the world go past. This butterfly joined us for some sunshine.

The entrance to Eastbourne can be a little shallow and indeed a local yacht following us ran aground. Did we say we appreciate our lifting centre board almost every day? The Eastbourne harbour RIB could not free them but, fortunately it was almost low tide and so they did not have too long to wait to float off. These photos show low tide with the unfortunate grounded yacht and high tide in the same channel.

The harbour is inside a lock to keep the water level fairly constant. We are getting used to these locks although they are all slightly different. In this one the pontoons on each side are floating so you can tie up to them while the water fills/empties the lock. Its a lot easier than adjusting lines as you rise or fall.

The weather in Eastbourne is much more settled than Brighton with long periods of still conditions. A local told us it has the highest solar index in the UK the met office confirms its 2nd and holds the record for most sun in a month since 1911. One might ponder if this is like claiming the highest mountain in Australia or best surf spot in Switzerland, however, as the available daylight hours dwindle our vitamin D levels need all the help they can get.

No fender testing here

We reached our first pole during the trip. Not quite as well known as the north and south poles but significant all the same…

Eastbourne is one of the more sheltered harbours we have visited, with good dog walking close by, plus a supply of food and beer. We might stay here a while.

Poole to the Chichester

Our pilot guide suggested that passing the famous Needles on the Isle of Wight when the tide is running against the wind is an uncomfortable experience. A few weeks earlier we had watched the start of the Fastnet race in such conditions and it looked rough enough to spill ones gin and tonic. The race finished in Cherbourg where a competitor explained that his sea boots stayed dry even when the 12 foot wave broke over the boat as they passed the Needles… No thanks, we can get up early to get a favourable tide.

We were up before dawn and motored out of Poole in the dark. Leaving in the dark is easier than arrival as you can follow your incoming track. Even so we needed both of us on deck to work out all the channel markers. Once clear of the channel we hoisted the sails, headed east keeping a keen eye out for crab pots as the sun rose. Approaching the Needles we had a moment of excitement when we decided to put the big red sail away and it decided it wanted to head over the side for a swim. Fortunately we got it under control with only some minor bruising.

We sailed on past the needles and took the obligatory selfie, feeling pretty proud about how far we have come from our few first tentative steps in Sydney Harbour on a J24.

There are so many marinas and anchorages in this area, but we picked Yarmouth on the Isle of Wight as it was close, sheltered from the forthcoming SW blow and close to some Garcia buyers we had met in Cherbourg. After dropping the sails we motored towards the harbour entrance, although I realised shortly afterwards that our 3 knot boat speed was matched by 3 knots of current and we were stationary… hmmm, more revs needed to get into the harbour.

Docking was one of the more challenging ones, as there is a significant cross current in the marina, however we managed it no problem and didn’t donk the neighbouring 75 foot luxury motor boat.

Once ashore and paper worked we headed to closest pub, about 50m away, for a late lunch. We had great restaurants, pubs, fresh local produce and a bakery all within a few minutes walk of the marina. We soon came to appreciate the slower pace of life on the IOW.

Away trying to blend in to Yarmouth

Away attracted the usual attention. The marina is next to the car ferry and waiting motorists would pop over for a look and a photo. We met a local couple starting their own sailing adventure who took an interest in the boat. We ended up having a delicious dinner at their home on the south side of the island.

The other Garcia buyers brought their friends for a quick look around the boat and we were invited for a cuppa the next day. The instructions led us over the river and along muddy paths (Bernie heaven) and eventually to large Elizabethan manor house overlooking the river. Bernie was a little spooked by the robotic lawn mowers but soon made friends with the 3 retrievers that lived there.

We were also shouted dinner with our Garcia friends which was lovely. We felt so welcomed on the IOW and would love to come back to this special place.

We got the folding bikes and headed out for a ride across the island. Bernie provides propulsion… who needs an e-bike when you have B-bike? Of course e-bikes don’t chase squirrels.


Next stop was Newtown Creek only a few miles along the Solent, and still on the IOW. Choosing a friendly tide and a lazy headsail we were soon inside the creek and attached to a convenient mooring buoy.

5 sea eagles appeared and reminded us how much we enjoy being out of the marina. We went ashore for a look round Newtown which was somewhat quieter than its namesake in Sydney.

We also managed to spot the local seals lazing around on some rocks nearby.

Another walk through the fields and along the edge of the Solent ended at the dinghy which was now a long muddy slide away from the water… oops, forgot about the tide going out. As the sun set we quickly realised that the thigh deep mud was not easy to traverse. New plan. We carried the dinghy, motor and fuel tank along a long narrow wooden pier and dropped them 1.5m down into the remaining channel. It was a relief to arrive back at the boat with nothing that a hose, hot showers, a dog wash and a dozen heavy soil long cycles in the washer couldn’t fix.

After a couple of days in Newtown Creek the weather and tide provided a great opportunity to get up after dawn for the short drift along the Solent to Chichester. The Solent mid week in autumn is an attention grabbing mix of leisure craft, scary big commercial ships, ferries, sail training and racing. Add some strong tide and gusty winds and the trip was less leisurely than we anticipated. Must be fun on a summers bank holiday weekend!

These old fortifications mark the end of the mayhem, but as the traffic eased the wind picked up. The narrow channel leading into Chichester was shallow in parts, enough to bring Away’s centre board up for extra clearance. Once inside we anchored and considered our options for the night. The forecast had increased to gusts well into the 30 knot range and while we would be secure on the anchor it would be more comfortable in the shelter of a marina. A quick ring around failed to turn up an available berth big enough for the mighty Away, so we opted for some better shelter and a visitors mooring further up the river at Itchenor.

We were welcomed by the Chichester Harbour Master for the two nights we stayed, and took the opportunity to have some rest after our muddy fun, and the rolly passage in. We still want to head east, so we need to take the weather when we can so we planned our next steps… The forecast for the next week had become quite robust, so we really needed to get going…

Portland to Poole

Bernie happy to be home again

With the family reunited on Away we set about making plans and exploring Portland. Bernie demanded a squirrel hunt and Fi wanted to visit the wool shop that never opens, so we set out along the old railway track up the hill to Castletown. The last of the seasons blackberries lined the track discussing if they would be better in jam or pies. We chose the jam ones and collected a bag of willing participants.

The headland overlooks a long section of coast and has long been used for coastal defence. We passed disused gaols, forts and quarries and arrived at the wool shop which did not disappoint. As with all English walks, a convenient doggie friendly pub popped up for restorative pie and ale.

Bernie and Fi worked out the route to the next pub and we were soon heading to our next stop on the ‘beach’ front.

All the best walks end in a dog bath and a clean fluffy satisfied dog…


Now in England we had to decide whether to turn left or right. We gathered all the ingredients for the decision: covid rules, visa enquiries, dog laws, sailing conditions, marina costs, mixed them round for a while with a pinch of indecision and decided to turn right. The latest plan is to cross the channel to Europe early next year and make our way north along the coast and eventually the Baltic.


Turning right: Portland (Weymouth) to Poole

News arrived that Away was to get some new crew: Sorana and Nigel who we had met in Bath (last blog) were mad enough to come sailing for the weekend and would be joining us in Portland!

Light winds on Saturday afternoon provided perfect conditions for a training session and a false sense of security. The big red sail came out and we soon had the crew doing all the work. Eventually the wind died completely and we puttered back to the dock past a loitering cruise ship as the sun set over the pebbly beach.

A relaxing passage along the coast to Poole the next day was planned over dinner.

The coast was spectacular east of Portland and despite its inhospitable cliffs there are nooks and headlands providing enough shelter for a lunch stop. Sorana and Nigel had walked some sections of the Jurassic coast walk which follows this section of coast and now got to see it from the water.

A rolly stop for lunch resulted in a case of sea sickness and Dr Bernie was called in to help.
Poole came into view as the light was fading.

We rounded the headland which was a little choppy, but as we came closer to our destination, the seas flattened out and everyone felt better. There is a chain ferry at the entrance to Poole Harbour, so after some discussions attempting to predict its next move, we decided to gun it past while it was still loading cars and head up towards our marina.

We said goodbye to Nigel and Sorana until next time, and again, found ourselves with a pint at the pub. The winds looked good the next day for the short hop to the Isle of Wight, but we would need to leave on the middle of the night (ok 6:30am really) to avoid unpleasant wind against tide conditions.

© 2024 Fi & Adrian

Theme by Anders NorenUp ↑