Sailing & Other Adventures

Month: May 2024

Another island break

Away doesn’t feel like moving right now due to her heart being taken apart, so we decided that given we would be stuck on the dock for a couple of weeks, why not go and visit another Scottish island that we don’t believe we would have sailed to (due to lack of anchorages).

A nap was needed after all the engine stress.

Off we popped one day into town, packed up with food and a dog and our bikes, and jumped on the CalMac ferry for the 2.5 hour trip over to beautiful Colonsay.

Arriving just on dusk, we rode our bikes up to the little cottage we would call home for a few nights.

Dusky clouds over the island of Jura as we arrived at our little cottage hideaway.

And just like that, we woke up the next day to blinding sunshine! Its like Colonsay knew we needed a little vitamin D and some lovely weather as a tonic to the engine shenanigans.

View from the kitchen window of the CalMac Colonsay ferry coming in to port. We took this across the day before. Is this sunshine even real?

Colonsay is about 60kms south west of Kerrera, and is home to about 100-150 people. Its one of the most remote places in Scotland. They don’t allow camper vehicles here, and so they maintain the number of tourists to a manageable level.

Bernie as he gets older gets confused when we’re not in the wobbly house.

On the island there is a pub, a small shop, a little restaurant, 2 distilleries, a book shop and a couple of gift shops. Also a fish smokery, airstrip and loads of old things.

Our first day was getting our bearings. We rode our bikes into town and had a look around. Bernie ran along well beside us and wore himself out a little. That afternoon we had booked a distillery tour at the Wild Thyme distillery which was about a 30 minute bike ride away on the other side of the island to our cottage. Its probably the nicest gin I had ever tasted. We tried their London gin, their Old Tom, their Navy strength and a few other drinks, and came home with a couple of bottles. The distillery is run by a couple who started it simply because they like gin, and had moved to the island and were looking for something worthwhile to create. Its delicious.

We also took Bernie for a little walk up in the hills.
There are wild goats on the island which are just HUGE. Apparently they are from a Spanish war ship that sank here ages ago. They just run around wild, but seriously I would not want to run across those horns on a walk in the hills.
Bike riding around to the distillery was a wonderful way to get our bearings, and see this beautiful island.

Colonsay has a neighboring island just to the south, which at low tide, is no longer an island. Its connected by these huge sand flats a couple of hours around low tide, so its walkable over there. The connected island is called Oronsay, and so on our second day of exploring, we noted we had the perfect time of tide to go for another good bike ride and then a 5 mile walk around Oronsay. Bernie ran and ran and ran with us, then walked with us over to Oronsay across the flats.

Tide looks low. Here we go for a possibly wet walk.
It was actually fine, as long as you had good boots. A few people were taking off their shoes to get across. Way to cold for that!

Once across, it was nice to visit the Priory. Built in 563AD by St Oran. It also has a farm house attached. The people who live on Oronsay are really governed by the tides, as they can only get across to Colonsay and on to the mainland at low tide, then by taking the 2.5 hour ferry to Oban. This is such a remote place.

The irises are coming out. The view up to the Priory.
First time wearing a tshirt in what feels like years! Walking and bike riding really keeps us warm. Too warm.
The Priory has been added on to a lot since 563AD.
The main hall area.
We saw graves here as recent as the early 1900s.

We saw there was a pretty white beach nearby too, and we still had time before the tide would cut us off from Colonsay, so we headed down there for a beach walk. The sand is so white, and alas it wasn’t a swimming day (note the hiking boots and puffy jackets). We couldn’t believe our luck with both the weather, and the timing of the tides.

Ok, so I still have my puffy jacket on. Its still cold for me.
Glorious beach. If only it were 20 degrees warmer.
With Bernie going pretty deaf these days, he’s rarely allowed off lead, much to his dismay.
We timed everything perfectly so that we could still walk back across the sandflats before the tide came in too far.
As we walked back, we discovered how the residents on Oronsay get their post. The postman delivers but only at low tide. I guess we still had plenty of time, as he was going across to Oronsay now, and would have to deliver post and get back again before he gets bogged and then washed away.

Riding back, Bernie was getting pretty tired, but still found energy reserves to sprint after a rabbit while he was attached to me on my bike. That was fun, and made for a quick trip.

“I’ve got spaniel energy reserves Mum.”
All the little baby lambs are everywhere and they are so cute.

The following day was our day to leave, but the ferry doesn’t go until the evening, so we decided that Bernie wasn’t worn out enough, so back across the island, but this time instead of to the distillery, we went north to Kiloran beach. We explored for a while, Bernie running and running, before he decided he should go swimming in the Atlantic. With his new haircut, the water gets onto his skin pretty quickly without the benefit of water repelling fluff, and so once he was done swimming and running, he realised he was freezing. He desperately needed to sleep an after some convincing, he realised snuggling up to me, despite the salt water drenching his skin, was probably the warmest place he’d get. He promptly fell asleep shivering, so my jacket went on top to get him warmed up. He’s definitely getting older these days.

We walked over the hill and were presented with this view of the beach! Perfect spot for a picnic, and not too crowded.
He walked straight into this rockpool, then quickly out again when he noted the temperature.
He still got in the water looking for fish though. This water is coming from the Atlantic and the wind was reasonable this day. Bernie began to shake when he was too tired to run around any more.
Again, wish it was 30 degrees because I’d be swimming, but this was so absolutely beautiful.
But while he was running around he was the happiest dog in the world.

After Bernie’s nap, we rode back to the ferry, and were on our way back to Kerrera. Colonsay was definitely the tonic we needed after a bit of stress with Away being sick. It was great to see such a beautiful island and in such spectacular weather.

Spectacular sunset over Mull as we pull in to Oban on the CalMac ferry.

Hopefully next time we will have good news to report about us kicking off sailing again. As I write it is sunny here on Kerrera, 21 degrees today and I am in a tshirt. The wind is perfect for sailing, sun is shining, and we would love to leave Hotel Kerrera, despite the friendships we’ve made and how beautiful this place is. The show must go on and we must continue to be Away.

Next time we hope to have good news about the engine. Hope.

Checking Out of the Hotel Kerrera

Away was lifted out of the water for an annual health check. The boat lift here drives into the water and picks up your boat. It helps to have a high tide and no long keel to get in the way.

This year we dropped the centerboard out and replaced the fittings.

After we serviced the engine we headed out for a quick shakedown cruise. There are so many beautiful anchorages only a couple of hours sail from the marina.

On the first morning we awoke to still conditions and the island of Mull reflected in the loch.

The shakedown cruise uncovered a number of boat issues that needed to be addressed. The engine not starting was top of the list. We eventually managed to start it and headed back to the marina to work out what the issue was.

We could tell summer was on the way as the overnight snow didn’t reach sea level.

We quickly worked out that there was still a little air left in the fuel system, so it was time to head out for another test.

Bernie was happy to be leaving the marina again and took up his lookout position on deck.

Our first stop was a Loch Aline that we had passed on the way from Tobermory last year. The Ardtornish Estate at the end of the loch looked like a lovely place to stay, for those who don’t bring their home with them. They even had a farm shop and we were able to replenish our deer supplies before leaving.

The anchorages are not too crowded at this time of year.

Next stop was the Boathouse Restaurant in Loch Choire. We had wanted to visit over winter but they had been closed or the weather had not worked out. This time we had a delightful meal of local produce sitting by the window looking out to Away.

Dinner arriving at the restaurant just ahead of us.
What a lovely view from our table at the Boatshed restaurant.
Leaving Lock Choire next day with some Scottish atmosphere blowing in

The following day we stayed mostly indoors as Away sailed back to Kerrera in a following breeze and some light rain and sleet.

Its well into 2024 and we have ticked off many boat jobs and are fully engaged in our annual visa battle. The days are getting longer, the winter gales have turned into spring gales and the temperatures soar over 10 degrees from time to time. Its time to make a plan for 2024.

The Plan for 2024

This years plan is to find warmth. After two years barely seeing temperatures over 20 degrees, we have decided its time to visit somewhere warmer. We overheard someone in the bar saying that it gets warmer if you go south. So we are looking for favorable winds to blow us south to warmer lands…

May Update:

Its early May and we are still at Kerrera Marina, or Hotel Kerrera as its now known. We were warned that you can check out any time you like, but you can never leave. And so it seems as we have met many people who came for a visit and are here years later. Each time a boat tries to leave it tangles its prop on a mooring line, has an engine failure, or can’t find crucial rigging that was on the boat last season.

We were ready to leave and say goodbye to Gill and Tim who run the marina and have our farewell pint in the Waypoint bar, but decided to get a last minute engine check as it was still surging on idle. The pink champagne was on ice and we remembered the day so long ago when we arrived here.

On a dark rainy Friday
Freezing wind in our hair
Warm smell of fresh coffees
Rising up through the air
Up ahead in the distance
We saw a shimmering light
Sails grew heavy and our wind grew light
We had to stop for the night

There Gill stood in the doorway
We heard the last drinks bell
And we were thinking to ourselves
“This could be heaven or this could be hell”
Then she lit up the Waypoint
She showed us the way
There were voices down the corridor
Thought we heard them say

Welcome to the Hotel Kerrera
Such a friendly place (such a friendly place), such a friendly face
There’s plenty of room at the Hotel Kerrera
Any time of year (any time of year), oh, you can find it here

Her mind is marina twisted
She got the fifty ton lift, uh
She got a lot of pretty-pretty boys
Who she calls friends
How they dance in the boatyard
Sweet winter sweat
Some dance to remember
Some dance to forget

So we called up the captain
Please bring us some oil, Tim said
“We haven’t had Volvo oil here since 1969”
And still those voices are calling from far away
Wake you up in the middle of a gale
Just to hear them say

Welcome to the Hotel Kerrera
Such a friendly place (such a friendly place), such a friendly face
We’re living it up at the Hotel Kerrera
Oh, what a nice sun rise (what a nice sun rise), hide your surprise

Burns night on the island
With wee drams on ice, and she said
“We are all just prisoners here of our own device”
And in our engine chamber
They gathered for the fix
Stab it with their steely tools
But they just can’t mend the beast

Last thing we remember
We were running for the door
Had to find the passage plan to the place we were before
“Relax”, said the ferry man
“We are programmed to believe”
You can check out any time you like, but you can never leave

Hmmm…serious

Next time we butcher the lyrics to another seventies classic and avoid going completely mad by taking a break from island and boat life: we take a trip on a different boat to different island.

Living on a Scottish Island

Away has spent the winter at Kerrera Marina in Scotland. Kerrera is small island a 10 minute ferry ride from Oban, one of the larger towns on the west coast of Scotland.

As the days grow shorter and colder the population disappear indoors. We enjoy settling in as local’s on the island, joining yoga class, shopping in the farm shop and maintaining fitness in the rain and gales. And keeping the dog entertained with rabbits, deer, cows and sheep.

At New Years we join a traditional dance called a Ceilidh. No dancing experience or skill required, just people of all ages and backgrounds keen to have some fun. We danced until midnight and watched the fireworks from Away.

Ceilidh action
New Year was celebrated by circumnavigating Kerrera Island

We got used to seeing the grey areas of intense winds on the forecast chart as the winter storms passed by. We’ve only sustained a couple of scratches, and one broken fender and a few ripped fender covers during the multitude of named storms this winter season.

The forecast would warn us before the next wee blow
Cooking in Away during a wee blow. Good practice for being at sea.
This boat broke its mooring in a blow and amazingly missed other moored boats and came to rest on a nearby beach. It was eventually floated off on a high tide with the help of some air bags.

Later in January, the Scottish poet Robert Burns is celebrated with an evening of poetry, haggis and a wee dram or two.

On Burns night a man in a kilt with a dagger recited poetry before slashing the haggis.

Soon Fi was off to Australia and our friend Nick came up for a few days. We drove up to Glencoe in some appropriate highland weather.

The marina managers also run a farm on the island and there were no shortage of volunteers to help out when one of the calves needed hand feeding four times a day.

This little guy was being hand reared and we got to feed him his formula.
They lived next to the calf…super cute.

A friend at the marina invited us out for his first sail on his boat. We started in light winds and sunshine, which can only mean one thing in Scotland…

…its about to start snowing and blowing a hooley

It was sunshine again a few minutes after this was taken

Between the storms there were some colder still days and even a dusting of snow.
We tried our hand at sourdough baking and even managed some edible loaves. Sourdough pancakes have become a breakfast treat.
Bernie searches the island for fresh rabbit and deer poo, occasionally chasing one of the many rabbits.

Next time we prepare to leave Oban and discuss our plans for this year…

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