Sailing & Other Adventures

Month: November 2024

The Day We Became ‘Cleatist’

A look at the weather showed it would be very quick trip back to UK or perhaps an opportunity to enjoy some harbour time. We decided on the latter.

Grey coloured wind is BAD.

St Peters Port has an inner harbour with a cill that keeps some water in the harbour at low tide. Once the outside water level is below the cill at low tide, any surge in the outer harbour is kept out. But after about half tide the surge comes through the inner harbour, gently swaying vessels to and fro.

Anticipating a bit of surge, we added some extra dock lines and had just settled down with a cup of tea when there was a metal on metal clunk outside. Hmmm. It took just a moment to notice one of the bow dock lines hanging loose and the remains of the cleat on the dock.

That used to be a dock cleat.

No matter there were a few more cleats we could use. The boat was now surging quite violently and the snatch loads on the cleats were becoming significant. Another boat further down the dock broke a stern line and another ripped a cleat out off its deck. Someone else injured themselves on their boat in the violent surge and was off to hospital.

To reduce the snatch loads we decided to put some longer lines with more stretch across the dock to some unused cleats on the far side of the dock. I was just explaining to another owner how we had broken a cleat when another one parted company with the dock, shot past our legs and smashed into the hull with a bullet like impact. ‘Just like that’ I explained.

The situation was becoming a little more serious as we were running out of cleats to hold the bow which was now enjoying some gusts into the forties and snatch loads from the surging. We were upwind of a number of more delicate fibreglass boats that were going to make that horrible crunching sound if we blew into them.

I noticed $2M worth of Leopard catamaran parked at the end of the fairway. Side on it was an unmissable target. If our bow came loose I imagined the force of the wind would break the stern lines in an instant and Away would head straight for the shiny white fibreglass and happily embed its solid aluminium bowsprit into the catamarans exposed hull. Then what? Would the wind twist Away and lever off a large section of gleaming white hull? I remembered those pictures from the blitz with peoples lounge rooms exposed to public view when a bomb ripped the front off a house. Would there be neatly folded PJs and a tidy row of sailing guides ordered by region and size, or a pile of long overdue washing and dishevelled pile of Multihull magazines? Perhaps the chain plates would be weakened by the impact enough for the rig to collapse into the car park surprising the retired couple enjoying their cheese and pickle sandwiches and flask of tea.

More cleats needed and quick. We set about finding additional under utilised cleats around the dock and moving them onto our dock. The ever present risk of being maimed by a low flying cleat made it stressful work.

We slowly added more and more mooring lines (thank goodness we bought more when we wintered in Scotland) and ran them through the cleats on our side, then across the dock over to the further side cleats for extra extra holding.

I was about to remove more cleats when an off duty harbour master came to suggest we didn’t cross the dock with our lines creating a tripping hazard. I decided not to shout at him immediately and instead explained that we were happy to remove the offending lines if he was happy to take responsibility for us turning the other boats into a splintering mess of crushed fiberglass. He asked why we were the only boat breaking cleats. Newtons second law was a long faded memory from high school physics, so I summarised that little wee boats equal little wee force on the cleats, big f**k off cruising boat equals big f**k off forces on the cleats. He must have been happy with the answer because he stopped asking questions and phoned the harbour team to bring more cleats.

Meanwhile, we had broken another cleat, and Fi was standing there ropes and a threatening cleat in her hands trying to stop it from scratching up her nicely patched hull wrapping.

About three hours after the surge started the harbour team turned up with extra cleats after the boss man had gone up there and directed. Fi had been up there twice already asking for more cleats, explaining that we were slowing shearing through their current ones. This didn’t seem to register with them, and we can only put it down to Fi being as cool as a cucumber, or the “salty proper sailing dudes” thinking she was overreacting.

We replaced the four broken ones, added numerous more and secured the now fourteen dock lines to multiple cleats each to reduce the loads on a single cleat.

Secure at last? Every dock line we had and the tow rope. Four broken cleats.

Six hours later, the tide had dropped and the cill was doing its work, stopping the massive surge. Dinner, and a sleep.

The next day we took a closer look at the dock and what had failed. The first cleats had sheared off under the snatch loads. A retired Rolls Royce engineer on the dock told us they were cast aluminium with significant cavities that were destined to fail under load. Cheap and nasty were his words.

The dock also used a rail system for the cleats that had allowed us to easily move the cleats from other parts of the dock. In some cases one end of the cleat had ripped out of the dock and then twisted and snapped the other end off. In other cases, as we surged backwards and forwards, the cleats simply moved on the rails, backwards and forwards in time with us. Not particularly secure.

Remains of a cleat. The left end ripped out of the slot and then the cleat twisted and tore the other end off. Looks like a good solid system for row boats.

Compare these to more solid cleats that we see on most docks in this region.

Sometimes it seems like cruising is a journey of dispelling assumptions (‘people offering to take lines on the dock know how to tie off a line’, ‘mooring buoys are safe to moor on’). We used to assume cleats were strong enough to tie on to. Not now. We have officially become ‘cleatist’.

Before the next blow is due, we decided to grab another weather window for our next destination.

Rolling over the Channel Islands

Last time we left Salcombe extraordinarily early in the morning and headed south.

Is it like this every morning?

It was Fi’s seventh channel crossing so we had some idea what to expect. This time it would be light winds to start and stronger winds and squalls with waves against tide later… something to look forward to. Plus it is the busiest shipping channel in the world, so Fi warmed up her “radio voice” in preparation for calling up the ships to ensure they were aware of our presence.

The tankers and cargo ships all exited the traffic separation area and took turns trying to hit us.
If you look in the right direction you can pretend they aren’t there.

The ride into Guernsey got quite squally and bumpy as predicted. We were surprised by the number of tuna in the channel, several times seeing groups of them jumping out of the water and chasing fish.

We had just put the sails down and were motoring towards port when this lined us up for some 30 knot winds and hail. Welcome to Guernsey! It had been 2 knots of wind prior to this hitting us.
Hmm…stay-inside weather
The beautiful St Peters Port.

Settled weather encouraged us to head to the nearby island of Sark. This was a momentous occasion as it completed our circumnavigation of… somewhere. We had last been to Sark after picking up the boat although we weren’t allowed ashore as it was covid times.

The anchorage at Sark. Less fog than last time we were here.
A taller ship parked nearby.
We go ashore on Sark. Its not the flattest island
Exploring the windy roads of Sark.
Some harbours even had tunnels to access them through the steep cliffs

How long can one handle a rolling house. 2 days, 3 days? Sark was such an interesting place to visit. There are no cars, historic places, natural beauty, and a rolly anchorage. So after a couple of nights, we realised that the boat was feeling flatter than the land, so we’d better leave for a less rolly anchorage.

Bye bye Sark. We decide to move to the south coast of Guernsey.
All the anchorages here have good sunsets

Around to the south side of Guernsey, we find a beautiful anchorage with a white sand beach. Oh, but its just as rolly. Fortunately, as the tide drops, the beach becomes a vast expanse of still, hard, flat – did I mention still – land. We enjoyed a few days on the beach as a respite to the rolly boat.

We find our own beach. At least at low tide. It completely disappears at high tide, sometimes even before the BBQ has finished cooking!
Big ears is a little hard of hearing these days, so doesn’t get off lead time as much as he used to. He was very happy to have multiple days off lead on his own beach.

We’d read that during World War 2, Guernsey was occupied by the Nazis, which neither of us actually knew. Close by to this anchorage was the “Occupation Museum” detailing what life was like during this time, so for a nice day off the rolly boat we headed up there for a good walk, and a look at all the artefacts found on the island after the occupation ended. The allies landed in St Peter Port where we would later moor Away.

Completely sick of the rolling, we elected to motor around the corner and back to bustling St Peter Port for some more touring of historic sites.

Returning to St Peter Port we find some old guns on a hill overlooking the port. This is the Clarence Battery built in 1779. Originally all the gun emplacements were set to point at France, but when the Nazi’s were occupying they built on top and extended it to have guns also pointing north, towards any raiding parties from England.
And others inside the hill. An second world war fuel bunker was now a museum of military paraphernalia. There was a lot left behind when the Germans left at the end of the war.

We learnt about the German occupation of the Channel Islands during WW2 at the several museums housing war artifacts. The Germans heavily fortified the islands. Rather than retake them by force, the allies negotiated their surrender at the end of the war, almost a year after the D day landings a few miles away. Many relics remained on the islands and have found their way into the museums.

Next time we destroy the dock in St Peters Port and explain Newtonian physics to a nice yet cranky man in a mild gale.

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