On a grey afternoon, we gingerly turned to port and entered the quaint town of Ribadesella, past the unexpected smells of eucalypt, and into a tight channel at mid tide.

We’d left Santander early that morning and enjoyed a largely downwind sail along the coast to Ribadesella a small town hidden behind hills and famed for its caves. There is an active kayak club here providing a regular procession of racing kayaks training on the river. So much so, they have built a statue to honour the fame that the kayakers have given the town. The town was was more vibrant and less faded than some of the Basque towns we had visited.

The river entrance at Ribadesella is in the dip in the coast line in the centre of the picture
There was a warning sign about Sirens which were not mentioned in our sailing guide. Fortunately we had not encountered them.
There’s Away parked in the marina.
Bernie wanted to venture up the river to see the scenery which was spectacular. With more time we might have enjoyed a canoe trip further up the river. Local companies transport canoes a few kms upriver so you can drift down the gavel races and soak up the scenery.
We soon worked out this symbol meant good seafood ahead.
And we didn’t need to go far to find this fine paella

A long hop along the coast took us to Ribadeo. Drama increased in the last few miles with a sudden sharp increase in wind, pot buoys spotted just under the water with no markers, a rolly river entry and arriving in the marina just on dark.

We explored the towns narrow stone lane ways whilst waiting for favourable winds.

After a day or so, we decided we were keen to start the Spanish Ria’s, rivers with huge bays, white sand beaches and clear blue water. The air temperature began to creep up, with temperatures in the high 20s. That water looks so tempting. A quick check with some toes after anchoring confirmed that we would need full wetsuits to even attempt it.

Next stop was Ria de Viveiro and a beautiful sandy beach
We were happy to be on anchor again
Before leaving the next morning we enjoyed a run on the beach
This section of coastline is wild and spectacular. This was one of the first sails we shared with a number of other yachts all heading for the same port: Cedeira. All the other boats crowded close around the dinghy landing dock, but Away’s new dinghy allowed a quieter anchorage at the other end of the bay.
Two women pointing Away

A Coruna was a short hop away and we had arranged for a number of deliveries to arrive at the marina.

Time to get our skates on!
The latest fashion in sailing boots had arrived, ready for the fashion conscious Mediterranean
We celebrated (almost) turning south with a rather posh meal.
The maxi Scallywag of Sydney-Hobart fame arrives in A Coruna enroute to the Fastnet race. Fi gave them a few tips.

We visited the vet for a checkup and to update our meds for the local nasties. They told us that tonight was the mid-year festival and everyone would be on the beach celebrating most of the night. We thought we had better see for ourselves:

The beach was largely alight by 11pm
At midnight the major fire was lit by the mayor accompanied by a short fireworks display
By this stage we realised (some of us in particular) were significantly increasing the average age of those on the beach
So we retired to the parents viewing gallery as the party really kicked off.

After getting most of our packages, and getting the familiar feeling we were staying too long, we decided that for the other packages for which Fi was fighting with Spanish customs, we would just travel up later by land once the war was won.

The quaint town of Corme, and its protected anchorage was our next stop. The weather was grey again, and we felt a little more like we were back north, with cold water and grey skies. The cold water in this area means fog is a common occurrence.

The gulls welcomed us into the harbour, just as the fog was blanketing us.
A good reason to have radar
We awoke the next day to hot sunny weather! Doesn’t do anything for the water temperature though, so a wetsuit was require for a swim to the beach.

So with swimming on hold still until we turn the corner into the Mediterranean, we head south to round Cape Finisterre. The cape used to be the end of the known world. We saw many Camino’s staring at us from the lighthouse. The Camino trail, also known as “The Way” is a series of walks across Spain, originally for religious pilgrims. A lot of people stop at the Cathedral in Santiago, however many also continue to what the Spanish at the time believed was the end of the world, or this headland.

The wind accelerated as we rounded the Cape gusting into the 30s. We made a fine sight reefed down and carving through the white caps at over 8 knots.
We tacked upwind, rescuing beach toys blowing across the bay and anchored in view of the Cape Finisterre lighthouse (off a white sandy beach).
Next day we were blown further south to another white sandy beach near Muros. The new dinghy meant we had the bay to ourselves as other boats anchored much closer to town.
Most of the towns have old narrow stone lanes with very little traffic
We discovered the local delicacy: percebes or goose barnacles. They are harvested from the local rocks by daring young men who rush out to collect them between sets of Atlantic breakers, and priced appropriately.
Not all restaurants sell them…

But we make do with razor clams
and more clams
But sometimes we are lucky…
Islands at the entrance to the Rias provide protection from the Atlantic swell. Clouds hang over the islands when the air cooled by the Atlantic rises.
Beaches on Spain’s Atlantic coast: Umbrellas because its hot and everyone needs some colour in their lives; Wading up to the knees because thats far enough to cool the whole body and cause a modicum of numbness; Walking – as its too cold for swimming there is a section of beach next to the water reserved for walking.
Our final deliveries made it to A Coruna so we made a pilgrimage via the Santiago cathedral to pick them up
This is Fi’s evidence that she finally won the war with Spanish customs (and some very cold water)
The Spanish authorities first boarded us in Santander. Then in Cedeira, then A Coruna, then Ribeira and Bueu. After the first time they give you a piece of blue paper that you can flash at the fast approaching rib full of black vested masked officers, and the now disappointed officers go in search of other victims.
Vigo was big enough to take cruise ships and the second morning we awoke to a new skyline as a small town arrived. We visited some of the less touristy areas.
An afternoon sea breeze took us to our last stop in the Rias: Baiona.
More narrow streets to sniff
And a curious group of people on a hill
The headland overlooking the marina, several white sandy beaches and the old town has ancient stone battlements encompassing a slightly more recent hotel. If only you could swim in that water…

In our next blog, we turn red to port.