Last time we were expecting good news on the pesky engine issue. Unfortunately, starting issues turned into catastrophic engine failure, days turned into weeks, and Away’s clean hull turned into a prolific undersea garden.

I’m not the only one that needs a beard trim
We started counting the passing ferries
climbing and reclimbing the local hills
taking regular trips on the ferry to Oban for critical supplies
optimistically reprogramming the boat to heat water using the sun
making excursions to London and Glasgow to apply for visas
bathing with the locals
enjoying a meal out
even the deer learned that there was no need to run when Bernie trotted by
But as the colour returned to Scotland there was a glimmer of hope
The correct gaskets had been worked out, the broken fuel lines replaced and the engine burst into life.
It had been an education (‘Wow, look at that redesigned exhaust elbow that allows free movement of the turbo waste gate!’) both in engine mechanics and engine mechanics
For our first trip we were joined by local and gin connoisseur Chelsea who we had met at the tastings she runs in the local area
With only a small diesel leak outstanding we decided it was finally time to say goodbye to our winter family
Early one morning Away and her luscious marine garden drifted off the dock and headed south for new adventures.

We aimed the bow at Lock Tarbert on Jura and were soon reactivating our sailing muscles pushing into a perky swell and a solid sou’wester. A quick poll was taken and it was concluded a night at in a local bay and an adventurously early start to catch the next tide was in order, rather than an extended and slightly damp bash along the Jura coast.

Away loving the conditions. Crew, not so much.
Next mornings rainbow reminded us we were still in Scotland

The next day it was a short back track to catch the impressive tide down the sheltered east side of Jura. The 5 knot tidal flow validated the early start! We passed the notorious Gulf of Corryvrecken well known for its tidal whirlpools. We had momentarily considered a short cut through the Corryvrecken but the overfalls and surging cross current confirmed our decision. Soon we were travelling as fast sideways as forwards! The local lifeboat roared up and down in what looked like a search pattern. Perhaps a crew member had lost their hat overboard. The tidal assistance declined and we tacked into Port Ellen between some squalls. The marina is on the compact side and a wee cross wind added to the fun. Not satisfied with the challenge we flattened the bow thruster battery on our reconnaissance pass and we were well satisfied (relieved) to reach the dock on our first attempt.

Coincidentally Port Ellen is walking distance from three of the finest Scottish distilleries and not far from several others, the perfect final stop in Scotland. We made a considered decision to leave the bikes at home and head out on foot towards our first stop: Laphroaig.

Laphroaig has been a long time favourite and we were taking this visit seriously
The ‘old and rare’ sampling flight did not disappoint
Curiously, Fi was starting to leave yellow footprints behind and the day had only just begun
Another 30 minutes walk brought us to the next stop, the smoother and more jovial Lagavulin.
Off to our final destination, and even the cows were startled by our ponderous walking style
We were too!
At first we couldn’t find the entrance despite a large black arrow pointing at it. But persistence paid off and we enjoyed our final tasting even more after discovering that a dog friendly bus could whisk us home.

The next passage involved one of those squeezy bits between the Mull of Kintyre and the Guinessland coast. Once a land bridge it now squeezes the waters rushing out of the Irish sea amplifying the waves and inspiring song lyrics. With tide and wind in the same direction our passage started well, but the afternoon winds continued to build to ‘a bit brisk for this early in season’ level and we decided to make an early landfall at Glenarm and celebrate our first new country of the year.

Land ahoy…I think I spy Guinnessland

When in Rome…

Next time we continue our travels through Guinessland, search for long lost relatives, and meet a distinctly live one.