Category: Norway (Page 2 of 2)

Railways and Prayers

April 23, 2023 / fiandadrian

Flåm is famous for its railway. Its one of the most picturesque train trips in the world, according to someone. They were right! It effortlessly climbed through steep mountain scenery, did a U turn inside a mountain and arrived on time to meet the Oslo-Bergen train at the top. You can return to the bottom by foot, mountain bike, skis or as we did, ride the train back down.

There is a stop to take pictures of a waterfall, although there was not much water falling today

Plenty of snow at the top and lots of skiers in the ski lodges

The next day some people turned up in a boat even bigger than ours. We decided to leave our new neighbours to the quay and walked up the valley to the Flåm church.

A fitting end to our walk… a man talking too much

The next day the forecast suggested the trolls would be blowing a hooley down the fjord. It was overcast when we left and the trolls were still sleeping.

We didn’t have to wait too long before they woke and we soon had winds gusting the ususal 8 to 25+ knots. Later in the day we even saw an instant 130 degree wind shift just to keep the sailing fun. We made it over 70 miles almost to the mouth of the fjord by evening.

Sometimes the chart plotter shows a depth of only a few meters when the charted depth is unfathomable. This is not a reason to worry and is caused by layers water confusing the depth sounder, pods of orcas or stray Russian submarines.

Out of the fjord and heading north, our next stop was the busy centre of Florø.

Some people build their houses on the smallest islands. This one had a light on top so ships don’t run into it

Florø was a bustling port with ferries coming and going every few minutes and fishing industry boats. We even saw some locals trying to persuade a goat onto a small boat for a trip it didn’t seem keen to make.

Florø was still emerging from its winter season into the sunshine, so after a two night stop we were off again. We did take the opportunity to walk up the hill and around the island.

More solid doors than Away! German gun emplacements were on top of the hill overlooking the coast.

Our next stop was Kalvåg, because several people had mentioned a nice restaurant there, and that it was the most popular spot on the west coast for cruisers. I guess the cruisers hadn’t yet emerged from winter as we were the only people there. As we came in, a fisherman in a run about (really) came near us shouting in Norwegian and gesturing to the harbour berths near the restaurant. After shouting “Australian”, English was engaged, and we were advised that we could park in the marina at the side of the restaurant. The wonderful fellow (who we would later learn owns the place) helped us with our lines, told us about the restaurant and where the local facilities were, and we were in! Ready for some seafood.

The fantastic hotel and restaurant right in the harbour

Entering the restaurant, we were met by the fisherman, now hotel owner, and enjoyed some food and wine. He introduced us to the chief of Norway Football who was in Sydney when Norway won soccer Olympic gold. The next night an Everest climber and reality TV star was giving a talk… it was that sort of place. We were told about the history. It started as a fishing village with up to 12,000 fishermen coming and going, and 6 women (poor ladies). The owner purchased the land from his brother, and built up the restaurant, hotel and other houses to turn it into a tourist mecca. It was delightful and we were treated to breakfast the next morning on the house. We’d love to come back. The hospitality here was second to none and everyone was so friendly. We understand why it is so popular. And the food was delicious.

What do we think about breakfast off the boat and a little civilization time?

However, the notorious Stad was calling us. Stadlandet is a headland on the west coast that sticks out into the North Sea and there is no choice but to head out into the cross currents, washing machine waves and shallower waters to get around it. Some sailors say they would prefer to round Cape Horn than Stad, so we were feeling a bit apprehensive about our crossing. It is so bad, that Norway are planning to build a tunnel for ships, yachts and other boats through the headland so that people don’t have to go around. A massive undertaking and speaks to how bad of a reputation the crossing has.

Red ship posing in front of mountains on the way to Selja

Our Stad jump off was to be a small island called Selja. It has an ancient monastery in honour of Norway’s only female Saint “Saint Sunniva”. She is the patron saint of Bergen, and it is believed that her remains were found in the cave above the monastery, and she was basically completely preserved. She was hiding there from some attackers, and it is said that “the heavens” caused a rock fall, trapping her and her companions inside the cave, but safe from the attackers. But then they were trapped anyway and died. But her body was preserved – therefore, saint. The monastery was established around 1060.

The monastery, and where the brick structure is up the hill is where the cave is

Monks have a keen eye for great real estate

Dramatic sunset on the evening prior to notorious Stad crossing.

Red sky at night, sailors calm crossing of Stad headland the next day.

As the sun went down we said an appropriate number of prayers for safe passage the next day. The gods must have been listening as we were blessed with calm seas, or perhaps it was the hours of analysing weather, wave and current data, researching peoples blogs and talking to locals to ensure the best conditions to make the passage.

We searched the horizon for signs of wave activity, but the anticlimax was overwhelming.

We motored most of the day, and found a great harbour just north of the headland, protected from the non existed swells to tie up for the evening. The island of Sandsøya was to be our home for the next 2 evenings as we pondered what to do after tackling this horrendous crossing. We had been so focused on the crossing that we had neglected to properly plan the coming days, but that’s easily solved with our charts, guide books and 30 minutes.

We headed off to find a treasure cave. Adrian contrived a route to climb over a mountain to get there.

At the top with the dolls in all directions

The blue line shows the ‘path’ down to the beach. Hiking in Norway is so adventurous.

There is treasure down there, but we left it for others to find

Outside the cave was the remains of a goat still waiting for his owner to return from the cave

The never-tired spaniel took the opportunity for a nap whilst we reviewed the map to find a flatter path home

Our walk returned on the flat past the inevitable white church

Next morning we headed off in search of another fjord.

The Wind Always Blows Down the Fjord

April 17, 2023 / fiandadrian

Away looks slightly out of place amongst the motor boats, office blocks and city dwellers. We had our fill of bright lights and city sounds and were happy to loosen the lines and slip out of Bergen weaving between commuter ferries and tourist trips promising waterfalls, fjords and trolls to I-love-Norway beanied tourists.

Motor boats rafted up behind us for the weekend

The islands around Bergen gradually become more sparsely populated.

Our anchorage required a left turn from a narrow channel into a narrower channel leading to narrower squeeze into the anchorage. The anchorage could not have contrasted more with the noise of Bergen.

A narrow channel from a narrow channel leading to a squeezy bit and a perfect parking space for one.

The next day our route was mostly decided by the height of the bridges between islands. We saw current of over 3 knots at some narrow points, fortunately heading the same way we were. When the channels opened up, we meandered along with a lazy headsail.

We have a weakness for restaurants with a harbour and this one is famous for its fish soup… what more could we ask for? They had opened a couple of days before at the start of April. It seems the season is starting, but its still very quiet.

This statue of St. Olaf was commissioned for Oslo, but Oslo decided they didn’t like it after the sculptor had finished. So he’s ended up here.

The landscape changed as we turned into Sognefjord. The sides of the fjord grew steeper and snow capped.

After a brief search for an anchorage (what were we thinking…this is a fjord), we headed across the fjord for shelter in Leirvik. There are two depths in the fjord unfathomable and more unfathomable. In some places the depths are charted at over a kilometer deep which reduces the crab pot hazard. It also makes anchoring possibilities more scarce, and in deed anchoring is known locally as ‘tying up’.

Leirvik had a brand new jetty and no wind which made docking simple

Leaving the tranquility of Leirvik we were quickly met by 25+ knot headwinds. The wind in the fjord is governed mostly by trolls who sit at the head of the fjord and try to blow sailors away. When they blow it can be over 30 knots, but between breaths it often stops altogether. The wind only comes in one direction, down the fjord. Even when the fjord changes direction 90 degrees, so does the wind. This makes fjord sailing simple, its either upwind, or downwind, with none of those confusing in-between points of sail.

It was blowing 25+ in the main fjord so we turned off to find a quiet lunch spot out of the wind

Our perseverance against the wind was rewarded by an evening in beautiful Hoyanger.

View looking back towards the main fjord from Hoyanger

A spare spot for Away at the end of the marina

The next day the trolls were at it again, but we were determined to reach Flam at the head of the Fjord.

This is an ‘upwind Fjord sailing in Spring’ smile

Our track (wiggly line) shows how a single tack curves around the corner of the fjord as the wind gradually changes direction.

Finally the trolls gave in or got bored, the wind abated and we motored the last section in to Flam.

We can see why cruise ships and fjord tours come here

The fjord narrows as we get to the last turn before Flam

We tried to stop at Undredal for their world famous goats cheese, but aborted when we saw the modest size of the dock and headed for Flam. Flam looked like a quiet town at the end of the fjord, but the cruise ship moorings suggested a different story.

The next morning this was the view from our house.

Season Preparation in Bergen

April 6, 2023 / fiandadrian

Norheimsund disappeared around the corner and we headed back along the Hardanger fjord towards the sea. The wind picked up and we considered sailing for long enough for the wind to die, pick up from the opposite direction, die again and then blow from a third direction. A typical day sailing on the fjord. We motored.

Not good sailing wind in the fjords, but the scenery makes up for it

We found a sheltered spot at the end of an island with an appropriate view to wake up to and tried to remember how to live on anchor again.

Our first anchorage on the end of an island. Nice to change the view from our house.

We stopped at the little town of Uskedal the next day for some exercise and lunch.

Uskedal church is typical of many in Norway, positioned with ice capped mountain backdrops.

Spring is late this year but its trying to arrive

Someone who had attended our talk, noticed us on AIS and emailed to suggest we look at the marks on the rock gouged out by glacier activity. They may not be too clear in the photo but there were deep horizontal gouges in the rock.

Our next anchorage had just enough room to swing around comfortably and some good shelter. In the morning we went ashore to exercise and collect ticks (thankfully just Bernie). While we practiced our downward dog, Bernie practiced his mad spaniel pulling up grass.

Quiet anchorage, dinghy, two exercised people and a mad spaniel

We motored around the islands to get closer to Bergen and found another empty anchorage on an island. It looks like it might get busy in summer but we met only one family who recommended a route for us to walk around the island. Bernie was very pleased. The houses on the island range from tiny ancient huts to modern houses mostly serving as summer houses for Bergenites. There were no signs and limited paths but after several side trips and some help from satellite pictures we arrived back at the harbour.

Bernie made us walk up here for the view

The next day we sailed and motored passed Bergen and into the yard to be hauled out. We rafted up with some of the brand new motor boats that they build in the yard. A light dusting of snow the next morning reminded us why there aren’t too many cruising boats around this time of year.

Rafted up for the night ready for our lift

Well they said it was wide enough for us to reverse into

Clear some snow off so we can see the lift markers

Copenhagen barnacles still hanging around.

We headed into Bergen for a few days while the boat was cleaned, anti fouled and serviced. It was a good break off the boat and a chance to look around and go the chandlery of course.

After safely re launching we took Away across to Bergen harbour to reprovision before heading north.

We had been warned that more people bring their boats in to party on Friday and Saturday. An armada of white runabouts descended on the dock area to meet friends and enjoy the local restaurants. A sleek black boat docked opposite us at dusk. It turned out to be a floating speaker that rattled and vibrated to the thump of dance music from late at night till after nine am.

Next we head north to quieter anchorages to recover from the excitement of Bergen.

Is it Spring yet?

March 23, 2023 / fiandadrian

Since returning from our trip to the UK we’ve been planning for our 2023 cruising and getting Away ready for some arctic water sailing.

Icicles form in late afternoon as the temperature drops and freezes the melting snow dripping off the roof

Winter has sure settled in here in Norheimsund and we are getting used to the boat being covered in snow and ice, and walking through the various tracks using crampons on our shoes. Bernie has had his first experience in proper powder snow and went mad running and running around.

We’ve been completing a few boat jobs, like setting up the dingy, installing more hooks (I love hooks), installing some plant shelves (I love plants) and doing general maintenance and tidy up.

When the sun comes out the views are stunning

Seeing some fantastic weather on the horizon, we plan to explore a little of the Hardanger Fjord. We had heard the arm of the Fjord just north from us was a beautiful town called Botnen that has only 3 permanent inhabitants and is a stunning example of remote Norwegian scenery. So one day, we stocked up with fuel and food and headed out into the sunshine.

Arriving in Botnen the reflections in the completely still fjord were epic.

We need to keep an eye on the ice to make sure we can leave

We spent 2 nights here and managed some walking into the hills with Bernie.

The road leads from the fjord to the houses. There are no roads in from outside.

We noted that we still had a few days of calm still sunny weather and headed further in the fjord to Ulvik and town recommended to us with great mountain scenery.

There was too much ice to reach Ulvik nestled amongst the mountains but we enjoyed the sunset as we headed back to Kinsarvik in the main fjord.

You can watch our little adventure in the fjord here: https://youtu.be/TTYafDfqFW8

Bernie decided a big walk was in order so we followed the ‘waterfall’ track from Kinsarvik. We climbed up beside a hydro electric pipe to an icy monotone landscape. Bernie tried the thin ice at the top of the waterfall and ‘enjoyed’ some on lead time while near the water after that.

There was plenty of dramatic landscapes as we headed back to our sheltered corner of the fjord in Norheimsund. The depth is mostly too great for our depth sounder to register a reading, but occasionally it showed just a few meters depth in the middle of the fjord. We weren’t able to determine if it was a passing orca, layers of fresh water or a stray russian submarine.

The local sailing club invited us to give a talk about our adventures at their meeting. It was so popular that we sold out the first venue and had to be upgraded to the local school classroom! We had spent the previous couple of weeks discussing together what in the world Norwegian sailors would want to hear from us! We figured pictures and stories of white sand beaches, sunshine and turquoise water were a welcome distraction from the winter weather and so we regaled them about our trip up the Australian East Coast in Addictive. Naturally we also added sufficient detail about Away, and a few of our adventures in Europe which resulted in a number of new visitors to Away over the coming days! So much social! Out of all the people listening to us, the only clearly bored person was the 10 year old who took to climbing on her Mum, so we were happy to have been entertaining.

Norheimsund on a dog walk around the lake.

It was finally time to break the winter inertia and start heading up the coast. The first stop is Bergen to clean Away’s bottom and stock up with fresh coffee beans.

Good bye Norheimsund, as we motor Away. The guest harbour is where you can see the red rooves in the middle.

The long road home

February 16, 2023 / fiandadrian

By Fi

Much like our trip over to the UK back in November, we have booked various ferries, trains and cars to get us back to Away in Norheimsund in Norway. Its getting too warm in the UK now.

We left the Squire one cloudy day in a hire car and drove to Bristol to our friends place. Bernie was deposited in one of the local doggy hotels, as we don’t enjoy him frightening our friends beautiful ginger cats. Plus, we wanted to go to Paris!

One enjoyable evening with friends was followed the next day with a tiny packed bag, and the cheapest flight we could find to Paris from Bristol.

What happens in Paris stays in Paris. We’ve been there a number of times now and just enjoy the city.

Unfortunately, due to the industrial action in France protesting the raising of the retirement age, our flight home was cancelled. Quick re-planning resulted in us jumping on the Eurostar to London, calling the doggy hotel and begging them to keep Bernie for a few more days because not only were there strikes in France, there were also strikes in the UK and we had no way of picking him up.

The London hotel we stay in is extremely doggy friendly and they were so excited we were coming back with Bernie that when we turned up without him there were some disappointed faces. We were assured that we were still allowed to stay without him. As it were, we had a glorious few days in London sans dog, and caught up with some wonderful friends, had lovely dinners out and saw a couple of shows on the West End. Delightful!

We didn’t take many photos in London. This is of the hotel main stairway. It is 5 Victorian townhouses joined together built in 1856 and has been used as a base for touring bands since 1975. It is often used for photoshoots and other events as it has such and eclectic style. Its even used in feature films and as a magazine shoot location. We didn’t spot anyone famous this trip.

The day had come to retrieve Bernie and the rest of our luggage. We had been making do with just our clothes for an overnighter in Paris, washing things in sinks by this point. Train to Bristol and our wonderful Sommerset friends ferried us to get our luggage, and then get Bernie, and then get back to the train station in record time! We made it back to the hotel, and settled Bernie in, much to the delight of the staff who gave him loads of pats and scratches.

Getting off the train in Paddington from Bristol with the dog and an obscene amount of luggage. Adrian is carrying about the same as me if not a little more.

The following day was our last day in the UK. We took Bernie to the vets to get his tapeworm tablet for Norway. This means he has 5 days to arrive in Norway from the time he is given the tablet. After a good dog walk and some chores, we packed up and were picked up in a car to be ferried out to our ferry at Harwich. The strikes were still on, so no trains for us.

Overnight ferry to the Hook of Holland, and alas, we were advised that our Holland to Norway ferry was cancelled! Refund pending, we had to re-plan how to get us and the dog back to Norway before the 5 day limit on Bernie’s worming tablet ran out. We research and research, and find that we can spend 15 hours on dog friendly trains from the Hook of Holland to Copenhagen, where we can catch another overnight dog friendly ferry to Oslo, and then a dog friendly train to Bergen and a dog friendly bus back to the boat. It was A LOT of travel and moving with a dog and 4 heavy bags, but we managed it, and found a great dog friendly hotel in Copenhagen for the night ready for our ferry to Oslo the next day.

Arriving after 9:30 pm at the hotel we search for food and find the most amazing Middle Eastern food with garlic so strong we could taste it for several days. This is Copenhagen after all.

We had a morning to look around Copenhagen near our hotel and had a look at the Meat Packing district. It was Sunday so most things were closed, but we’d definitely come back here.

Soaking up some pats on the overnight ferry to Oslo

Oslofjord was a little icy when we came in to dock.

We had decided to spend a couple of days in Oslo as it is unlikely that we would sail there. Away is already north of Oslo. We enjoy some great food, and some long walks to the palace to watch the changing of the guard and also to The Vigeland Park where the artist Gustav Vigeland has his works on display. It was all so dramatic in the snow.

We watched the guards do their thing. They have extremely big guns.

The Karl Johan monument – a marshal of France during the Napoleonic wars who ended up being King of Norway and Sweden.

The first set of sculptures we see as we enter The Vigeland Park is a series featuring a woman and a lizard creature. I am unsure of the significance.

I imagine this is how Bernie feels about wearing his jacket.

These amazing bronze statues are placed all through the park.

This was the only foodie picture I took! This was at a great Italian restaurant, and we also tried the local street food market called Barcode, and a Japanese restaurant.

It was then time to take the train from Oslo towards Bergen. This stretch of railway is extremely picturesque, and an offshoot of this railway is the Flam Railway which is rated one of the most picturesque in the world. It did not disappoint!

I wanted to have a little sleep but the views were so stunning!

After a few hours, we arrived in a town called Voss, hoped on the bus and we were finally home! After 3 months away, we had a few jobs to do to get the boat warmed up and into a home again.

We are now working on getting the boat ready for the new season, and settling into life in the snow, and then the rain, and then the snow.

Away was looking a little snowy when we arrived!

Winter arrives…

November 28, 2022 / fiandadrian

When we last left off, we had just arrived in beautiful Norheimsund in the Hardanger Fjord in Norway, planning to stay here the winter. Norheimsund has not disappointed.

*Norheimsund surrounds a beautiful lake called Lake Movatnet which is fed by the dramatic waterfall Steinsdalsfossen.*

The flat part of white to the right of the middle of this picture part of Folgefonna, comprising of 3 plateau glaciers in the Folgefonna National Park. There is a ski area here, and loads of wild hiking. Our view from Away looks out on to the Fjord and the glacier above.

This stone bridge carries cars and pedestrians across the outlet from Lake Movatnet where the salt water from the fjord mixes with the fresh water from the lake. Depending on the time of the tide and how much rainfall we’ve had, the water rushes out like this, or in from the Hardanger Fjord.

Steinsdalsfossen waterfall is so famous it even has a car park, two gift shops and a coffee shop.

Usually, you can walk right under the overhang of the waterfall, but not during winter. So we enjoy the view with our icecreams. We decided this was part of our conditioning process, as it is going to get a LOT colder here soon.

The waterfall wasn’t always here, the river used to travel further west from where it is now, until one day the river broke its banks due to massive flooding and whether due to an avalanche or build up of snow, managed to change its path towards this overhang. The rock above is hard lava, and where the path goes is a softer rock, hence the overhang.

After a large amount of rain there is plenty of waterfall drama.

Its not long and the colours start changing as each day the sun gets a little lower.

We get a little more adventurous one day and go for a walk up a very large hill. Climbing to 1.5 hours straight up brought us to this scenic campground with stuning views of the Hardanger Fjord. Bernie of course really appreciated the view by sniffing the ground incessantly. He had a great day and fell into bed.

You can almost see the glacier – Folgefonna – in this photo. Its our constant view down on Away in the fjord.

Quaint campground inclusive of huts next to the lake.

We have been walking and walking, and exploring the town. We’ve caught the bus into Bergen and bought some of the most expensive fish ever.

We wander around the old dock areas named Tyskebryggen in Bergen. Bernie was allowed on the bus so he got to have a day out touristing with us.

We do love some interesting street art. Bergen definitely has a more “city” feel than Norheimsund.

More walking.

Views over the Folgefonna National Park from the east side of Norheimsund.

The winter weather sets in and things get frosty. We awake one morning to some icy windows. No snow yet. We are also busily preparing the boat for winter. Norheimsund does get snow, sometimes a lot, and so its best to be protected from that.

Fi does a little trip to warmer weather. Sunshine, friends and family for a short while. Apologies for not being able to see everyone, it was a quick trip!

Bye Fi! Off she goes to Bergen airport to begin her 40 hour journey back to Sydney for a couple of weeks.

Bernie misses Fi for the first 5 minutes.

Adrian stays on dog sitting duties and discovers more secrets in the hills around the town.

Hidden Folgefonna and the entrance to Norheimsund harbour from the Hardanger Fjord. Lake Movatnet in the foreground.

While Fi was away it rained. And rained.

Its borderline freezing… but at least he wore his raincoat to keep the rain off.

And before Adrian and Bernie know it, Fi is back! And brought Arnotts mint slice Vegemite and Milo with her! No time to waste, so more hiking in the hills to get over the jet lag. There is so little sun these days, the jet lag sticks around.

Yay she’s back! And brought the sunshine too!

The low light here makes for some spectacular scenery.

Up into the hills we go one morning! Backpacks packed with our camp stove, tea bags and milk, lunch, water and some snacks.

You trip over waterfalls everywhere in Norway. This one had a particularly interesting opposite bank where the grass stems were frozen solid. Made for some cool photos.

We cook up a hot lunch and cups of tea in the hills. Bernie as always very helpful.

Coming back past the waterfall on the way down. Bernie as usual really appreciating the view.

Those frozen grass fronds in the afternoon light.

Water spray from the waterfall freezes wherever it lands.

Down down we go, appreciating the afternoon light.

More walking and amazing photos. The local lake freezes over.

Not a lot of flowing water left for these ducks.

Its sheltered in our little corner of the fjord, but some days the wind howls off the peaks and the main fjord turns foamy white.

Fi stepped out of the cockpit one morning to this view. The mist was unbelievable and made the whole world look black and white.

Just to prove the photo wasn’t in black and white, here is a local fishing boat making a cameo.

In our typical fashion, we can’t keep still for too long. So some other plans are afoot. One frosty afternoon after preparing Away for some extended alone time over winter, we hire a car, bundling up the dog and some belongings into the back. We say farewell to Norheimsund – its hills, waterfalls, glaciers and lakes – and drive into the cold Norwegian night…

Finding winter

October 18, 2022 / fiandadrian

One of the very great pleasures of cruising is making a plan and then changing it. The freedom to follow ones own program is somehow liberating, if a little disconcerting at times. One evening in Risor we pored over the weather forecasts, discussed visas, sent emails to the brains trust, went through many possibilities and eventually at 1am settled on a new plan.

Watching weather windows for the North Sea crossing change from ‘a nice day out’ to ‘you are going to need a change of underwear’ was weighing heavily on us, when we found what we hope will be an ideal winter hideout for Away in Norway this winter.

We had a call to the marina who noted we were still 300nm away, ‘but thats probably not far if you are Australian’. Agreed, but we need to get our sea boots on and start making some miles between the regular blasts off the North Sea.

See, we can get up early. The street lights are still on.

We prepared to leave at first light. The solo sailor from the 24ft boat in front of us was having his first beer and lamenting that we didn’t drink enough to make a fair race to Kristiansand. We wonder how his race went. For us the wind was just on the nose by 15 degrees more than our forecast. We motor sailed into a bumpy swell all day to ensure we made good mileage and reached Kristiansand by dark.

This little chap flew into the rigging as we were leaving. Fi made him comfortable until he felt well enough to fly back to land.

We arrived just before dark in a lovely protected bay. We knew the winds were to pick up to gale force from the south west, and so we chose a protected spot. This was confirmed by a local as we docked so that was good. She did however forget to mention to us one important point…

Tied up safely to this lovely protected dock.

The next morning, we were startled awake by the sounds of crashing dishes and a large 17 tonne aluminium boat cracking the fragile wooden dock. We were being rocked side to side by the massive wake of the passing fast ferry. Wish our local friend had mentioned that before we got comfortable and decided not to wash up that night.

The two of us spent a few minutes catching flying plates and consoling a shocked spaniel. We gathered our senses, got dressed and vowed to get outta there. We couldn’t stay with that level of wake, and we had half a day before the gale was due to arrive. We started the motor and got out of there quickly, before another wake was due to come through – and before coffee. Not a great start.

Settling in to our new passage, we make coffee, and find a couple of options to hide out the wind. Our path would take us to the island of Helgoya where we thought we might be able to tie up. After a couple of unsuccessful attempts inclusive of getting our rudder stuck on a rock, we decided to leave and find somewhere else. Another 10 miles down the way, we find a beautiful anchorage, empty islands, protection from the gale, and a free deep dock to which we could tie up. We spend a few days hiding from the wind in what really is an autumn paradise, with only sheep for company.

After a few days, the winds died down, and we planned to head west along the coast to an anchorage near Egersund. As the day progressed, we experienced the North Sea swells and wind chop. The chop picked up and up as the tide turned against the wind, and before we knew it we were in washing machine conditions with the boat being rocked around. No one was happy, and we realised we were not going to make our anchorage. A quick replan found a sheltered bay for the night. We were greeted by a local who helped us dock in 20 knots of wind. We were tired after the day, but we didn’t want to stay here as it was simply a port for local fishing vessels, and there was the possibility of making further progress.

Despite the wind being on the nose, we headed out with the motor on, and motor sailed all day. Fortunately, the washing machine had run its cycle, and so the waves were a little tamer leaving the bay.

The only boats we see are fishing boats putting out boat traps

We hold on tight getting into this harbour

Motor sailing all day, we dodged the lobster pots and fishing boats. Evenutally we arrived on an island called Rott at dusk, where we expected to just spend the evening and get going the next morning. What we did not expect was the amazing warm welcome we received.

Waiting on the dock was one of the locals who welcomed us and helped us tie our lines, and invited us to their community hall for a tour, and a beer.

The community building was moved here and reassembled by locals. Its set up for their end of season dinner. The wooden boat in the background was used to ferry pilots out to passing vessels.

We chatted all evening, and eventually needed to get back to Away, to eat and prepare for another big sail the next day. If it was earlier in the season, we would have stayed. The island was beautiful, and we have made new friends who we hope to see again. Thank you Rott, it was truly an experience (I hope you are all reading this!).

The next day was our end of season sailing test where we put everything we had learned to the test, or so it seemed. Getting up before dawn to use all the daylight hours we just managed to get the boat off the dock between gusts. There were gust warnings and gales further off the coast but also the promise of fast downwind sailing. We gybe our way through some skerries , eventually leaving the Stavanger area behind us. The rain increases so we navigate the narrow channel near Norheim from the inside whilst avoiding the shipping and still sailing at 7 knots.

Winds gusting 36 we are truckin up the coast

We are so close to Hardanger Fjord and dead keen to get there so we decide to keep pushing on, even though it was pouring with rain. We are busy sailing, and dodging tankers, and neglect to listen to the new gale warning out. Perhaps we should have.

Leaving the tankers behind, we reach the last stretch of open ocean that we need to cross before we enter the protection of the Hardanger Fjord. Oh, and that gale…

The waves picked up, and the wind shifts. Its time slot between some rocks and island before gybing towards the fjord. The wind jumps to 35 knots on the beam, the seas become white and foamy. The autopilot is struggling to change direction but when we turn it off we can’t turn the wheel by hand. Fi coolly depowers the sails and starts the engine as the rocks are close, and we turn onto a more comfortable down wind blast into the fjord.

Sailing downwind, the boat responds better in the strong conditions, and we hold on, watching as the fjord comes into view, then out of view again as another squall smashes us. Hold on.

Eventually, eventually… the waves even out. The boat feels better, the fjord is here.

Sailing in, we find another protected anchorage, and happily drop our anchor. The wind here is now 2 knots, as opposed to the 30 knots outside the fjord. Sigh of relief.

Another sleep is had. We toy with the idea of spending the day here, but for our final push to our winter anchorage, the day is forecast to be sunny with no winds, whereas the day after is raining and blowing again.

So that morning, rather exhausted and reluctant, we up anchor and motor into the fjord. We are not disappointed with our decision.

Are you sure its not another one of those sailing days?

After a day of beautiful views of snow capped mountains, we are reminded its autumn again. With 30 minutes until we arrive into Norheimsund, our winter berth, the wind increases from 2 knots to over 35 knots. Nervous about docking in these conditions, we cross our fingers that the marina is indeed as protected as they say.

Will we finally find Bernie the snow we promised him?

As we get to the marina, breathing a BIG sigh of relief, we see that it is very protected. Its flat calm water and only a breath of wind. We are amazed at how quickly the conditions change in the fjord.

We tie up, and chat with a local who helped us in. High fives all round and Bernie is already off running and making mischief. All ready to pack up, the weather decided to give us one last challenge, and again 30 knots smashed down the bay, straight into the back of Away. Fortunately, our docking lines were secure, and we just had to try to put up the bimni in 30 knots. Not that easy, but all done, mostly dry, and we opened a bottle of wine and finally, we were home for the winter.

We have other plans for this winter. But for now, we are going to enjoy the beautiful town of Norheimsund, relax and prepare the boat for snow.

Accidentally in love.

October 11, 2022 / fiandadrian

In our last blog, we arrived in Risør, Norway and tied up to the stone wall here to wait out some gales coming from the South. Risør was a convenient port to stop into given its distance from our most recent Swedish anchorages. We did not do too much research on the area as we expected to pass through rather quickly on our way to Scotland. Well, one gale turned into 3, and 3 nights turned into 8 fairly quickly.

Risør is protected by a group of small rocky islands, or skerries.

Can there be too many cute white houses and narrow lane ways?

Risør is stunning. Our first day here we went foraging for mussels and oysters in the dingy in the local area. It is lobster season now and there are pots everywhere. Just before the rain hits, we make it back to Away to cook up a seafood feast.

In to the soup. Coconut ginger and lime broth.

Just reward for some determined shucking. Four kilpatrick with cured reindeer instead of bacon, and 8 natural with an asian inspired sauce.

Fi bringing Away fashion to Risør. In the background you can see the high ground behind the town where extensive German WW2 gun emplacements now make great dog walking, mushroom hunting and exploring.

The guest harbour is a little exposed outside the breakwater, but at this time of year we found a spot inside the harbour wall.

We helped a solo French sailor in a catamaran dock behind us. It transpired that his catamaran was the first catamaran built by Garcia who also built Away. He left us a thank you crab on the deck when he moved on, which Bernie discovered on his way to his morning wee. He will now walk round the deck the long way to avoid the location of the strange creature with big scary claws.

Looking down on Risor harbour from the gun emplacement. Away is center left.

You are allowed to explore the WW2 tunnels

Underground rooms once housed munitions and soldiers

The old town water supply now reflects the autumn colours.

We found lots of mushrooms in the woods. There is even an online Norwegian mushroom identification service that will tell you if they are safe to eat!

When the local press arrived to interview us about what a strange black boat from Australia was doing in the harbour, we knew it was time to move on. They published a nice article in the local paper.

Risør, Australia _ Skipshunden Bernie avgjør hvor «Away» skal seile (1)Download

By this stage, and after a few more doggy walks along the coast, we were totally in love with Risør. In total we spend 8 days here, the second longest we have spent anywhere this trip except for Copenhagen – maybe Stockholm too… The food, people, nature and exploring opportunities were fantastic. We meant to leave after a couple of days, but spent one evening planning until 1AM. What was going on with the north sea? There was gale after gale coming over, and constant 4-5m conditions with only a slim 1.5 day break in between them. We need 2.5-3 days to cross, and it was not looking good. That night, we made a plan to stay in Norway for the winter and travel to the UK for December and January to reset our Schengen visas and apply again for our Swedish residency permit. It was hard to admit defeat, but we don’t want to scare ourselves silly and end up becoming land lubbers again.

The next day, pondering out big decision, we do some more exploring in the hills, and get to planning.

Perhaps I wasn’t so unhappy to spend a few more days here.

The colours are changing. Soon this place will be covered in snow, and the harbour most likely frozen.

Adrian and I do research and make calls to Norwegian marinas in the area. We find a marina in one of the most beautiful fjords in Norway, a few hundred miles north from where we are now. The marina doesn’t freeze over, we can stay in the water, there is skiing, cross country skiing and amazing hiking to be had all winter. It is also possible for us to travel with Bernie over to England in late November from there. We book in, and begin passage planning to get there before Fi needs to jump on a plane and head back to the sunny (or rainy) wilds of Sydney Town.