We arrived in Guninessland and did some touring around Belfast. We were waiting for a half decent weather window to head south, but apparently this time of year everyone heads north, according to the wind anyway. After Glenarm we sailed south to Bangor, which is an excellent and safe marina to visit Belfast in Northern Ireland. It was all big ships, big cities and black cabs.
While we were waiting for the wind to be our friend, we decided to hire a car and head to Derry where we would have liked to have sailed to, but… sailing timings don’t always work.
Finally, we get the weather to head on down to Dun Laoghaire (pronounced Dun Leery) which is right near Dublin and where we would pick up our guest Ryan, Adrian’s son!
So, again the weather decided to favour those heading north, but no matter as it meant we could explore the Guinness Factory, Temple Bar, general Dubliness etc.
Whilst the winds were more favourable for heading north, we did have some nice weather and decided to take Ryan out for a test sail. He did an excellent job helming upwind for a while, getting his sea legs.
Adrian and Ryan take a trip north to show Ryan a bit of Northern Ireland.
The next day, the winds decided to turn, and we could head south, stopping overnight in Arklow, then on to Kilmore Quay for a few days.
After all this beautiful weather and beach walking, we decided England was calling and we should push off and do a decent passage down to the Scilly Isles. I had been to the islands previously on the ferry, and I had also tacked up and down near them when I did the Fastnet last year, but had never sailed here so it was a real treat to get into the islands and anchor up. Not so much of a treat tacking for about 10 hours though. We called it, and put the big metal sail on to get in before Adrian and I passed out.
A few days on the Scillys were brilliant and felt like we were almost on a tropical holiday, except that we enjoyed cream teas.
The weather was due to come in, and whilst we would have been fine at the Scilly’s, our passenger was due to get back to France to fly back home so we chose a fabulous day to sail across from the Scilly’s to Falmouth in Cornwall.
It was here, we decided that whilst we are seasoned sailors, expecting someone who has never sailed before to do ocean passages with us was unreasonable, and perhaps some land based activities were in order. So off we went to London, and on to Paris.
Its in Paris where we wave goodbye to Ryan as he heads home to Australia. Thanks Ryan for coming!
Back on Away in Falmouth, again the weather decided we shouldn’t leave the south of England unless we wanted to motor everywhere, so we explored Falmouth, until the fateful day, we realised we could do the quick little 5 mile sail into the Helford River, just south from town. Its a beautiful place.
But… The engine was hard to start.
It started and we sailed, and enjoyed a few beautiful days in the Helford. What an absolute gem of a place.
Our plan was to head to Fowey (pronounced Foy) next. Engine checks done, oil looks funny and for some reason is really really high – way above max. Darn it… We should call the Volvo people in Falmouth. Call made. Advice, “yeeeeeaaaah don’t start that engine, we’ll come and get you”. Stay tuned.
Last time we were expecting good news on the pesky engine issue. Unfortunately, starting issues turned into catastrophic engine failure, days turned into weeks, and Away’s clean hull turned into a prolific undersea garden.
We aimed the bow at Lock Tarbert on Jura and were soon reactivating our sailing muscles pushing into a perky swell and a solid sou’wester. A quick poll was taken and it was concluded a night at in a local bay and an adventurously early start to catch the next tide was in order, rather than an extended and slightly damp bash along the Jura coast.
The next day it was a short back track to catch the impressive tide down the sheltered east side of Jura. The 5 knot tidal flow validated the early start! We passed the notorious Gulf of Corryvrecken well known for its tidal whirlpools. We had momentarily considered a short cut through the Corryvrecken but the overfalls and surging cross current confirmed our decision. Soon we were travelling as fast sideways as forwards! The local lifeboat roared up and down in what looked like a search pattern. Perhaps a crew member had lost their hat overboard. The tidal assistance declined and we tacked into Port Ellen between some squalls. The marina is on the compact side and a wee cross wind added to the fun. Not satisfied with the challenge we flattened the bow thruster battery on our reconnaissance pass and we were well satisfied (relieved) to reach the dock on our first attempt.
Coincidentally Port Ellen is walking distance from three of the finest Scottish distilleries and not far from several others, the perfect final stop in Scotland. We made a considered decision to leave the bikes at home and head out on foot towards our first stop: Laphroaig.
The next passage involved one of those squeezy bits between the Mull of Kintyre and the Guinessland coast. Once a land bridge it now squeezes the waters rushing out of the Irish sea amplifying the waves and inspiring song lyrics. With tide and wind in the same direction our passage started well, but the afternoon winds continued to build to ‘a bit brisk for this early in season’ level and we decided to make an early landfall at Glenarm and celebrate our first new country of the year.
Next time we continue our travels through Guinessland, search for long lost relatives, and meet a distinctly live one.
Away doesn’t feel like moving right now due to her heart being taken apart, so we decided that given we would be stuck on the dock for a couple of weeks, why not go and visit another Scottish island that we don’t believe we would have sailed to (due to lack of anchorages).
Off we popped one day into town, packed up with food and a dog and our bikes, and jumped on the CalMac ferry for the 2.5 hour trip over to beautiful Colonsay.
Arriving just on dusk, we rode our bikes up to the little cottage we would call home for a few nights.
And just like that, we woke up the next day to blinding sunshine! Its like Colonsay knew we needed a little vitamin D and some lovely weather as a tonic to the engine shenanigans.
Colonsay is about 60kms south west of Kerrera, and is home to about 100-150 people. Its one of the most remote places in Scotland. They don’t allow camper vehicles here, and so they maintain the number of tourists to a manageable level.
On the island there is a pub, a small shop, a little restaurant, 2 distilleries, a book shop and a couple of gift shops. Also a fish smokery, airstrip and loads of old things.
Our first day was getting our bearings. We rode our bikes into town and had a look around. Bernie ran along well beside us and wore himself out a little. That afternoon we had booked a distillery tour at the Wild Thyme distillery which was about a 30 minute bike ride away on the other side of the island to our cottage. Its probably the nicest gin I had ever tasted. We tried their London gin, their Old Tom, their Navy strength and a few other drinks, and came home with a couple of bottles. The distillery is run by a couple who started it simply because they like gin, and had moved to the island and were looking for something worthwhile to create. Its delicious.
Colonsay has a neighboring island just to the south, which at low tide, is no longer an island. Its connected by these huge sand flats a couple of hours around low tide, so its walkable over there. The connected island is called Oronsay, and so on our second day of exploring, we noted we had the perfect time of tide to go for another good bike ride and then a 5 mile walk around Oronsay. Bernie ran and ran and ran with us, then walked with us over to Oronsay across the flats.
Once across, it was nice to visit the Priory. Built in 563AD by St Oran. It also has a farm house attached. The people who live on Oronsay are really governed by the tides, as they can only get across to Colonsay and on to the mainland at low tide, then by taking the 2.5 hour ferry to Oban. This is such a remote place.
We saw there was a pretty white beach nearby too, and we still had time before the tide would cut us off from Colonsay, so we headed down there for a beach walk. The sand is so white, and alas it wasn’t a swimming day (note the hiking boots and puffy jackets). We couldn’t believe our luck with both the weather, and the timing of the tides.
Riding back, Bernie was getting pretty tired, but still found energy reserves to sprint after a rabbit while he was attached to me on my bike. That was fun, and made for a quick trip.
The following day was our day to leave, but the ferry doesn’t go until the evening, so we decided that Bernie wasn’t worn out enough, so back across the island, but this time instead of to the distillery, we went north to Kiloran beach. We explored for a while, Bernie running and running, before he decided he should go swimming in the Atlantic. With his new haircut, the water gets onto his skin pretty quickly without the benefit of water repelling fluff, and so once he was done swimming and running, he realised he was freezing. He desperately needed to sleep an after some convincing, he realised snuggling up to me, despite the salt water drenching his skin, was probably the warmest place he’d get. He promptly fell asleep shivering, so my jacket went on top to get him warmed up. He’s definitely getting older these days.
After Bernie’s nap, we rode back to the ferry, and were on our way back to Kerrera. Colonsay was definitely the tonic we needed after a bit of stress with Away being sick. It was great to see such a beautiful island and in such spectacular weather.
Hopefully next time we will have good news to report about us kicking off sailing again. As I write it is sunny here on Kerrera, 21 degrees today and I am in a tshirt. The wind is perfect for sailing, sun is shining, and we would love to leave Hotel Kerrera, despite the friendships we’ve made and how beautiful this place is. The show must go on and we must continue to be Away.
Next time we hope to have good news about the engine. Hope.
Away was lifted out of the water for an annual health check. The boat lift here drives into the water and picks up your boat. It helps to have a high tide and no long keel to get in the way.
This year we dropped the centerboard out and replaced the fittings.
After we serviced the engine we headed out for a quick shakedown cruise. There are so many beautiful anchorages only a couple of hours sail from the marina.
The shakedown cruise uncovered a number of boat issues that needed to be addressed. The engine not starting was top of the list. We eventually managed to start it and headed back to the marina to work out what the issue was.
We quickly worked out that there was still a little air left in the fuel system, so it was time to head out for another test.
Our first stop was a Loch Aline that we had passed on the way from Tobermory last year. The Ardtornish Estate at the end of the loch looked like a lovely place to stay, for those who don’t bring their home with them. They even had a farm shop and we were able to replenish our deer supplies before leaving.
Next stop was the Boathouse Restaurant in Loch Choire. We had wanted to visit over winter but they had been closed or the weather had not worked out. This time we had a delightful meal of local produce sitting by the window looking out to Away.
The following day we stayed mostly indoors as Away sailed back to Kerrera in a following breeze and some light rain and sleet.
Its well into 2024 and we have ticked off many boat jobs and are fully engaged in our annual visa battle. The days are getting longer, the winter gales have turned into spring gales and the temperatures soar over 10 degrees from time to time. Its time to make a plan for 2024.
The Plan for 2024
This years plan is to find warmth. After two years barely seeing temperatures over 20 degrees, we have decided its time to visit somewhere warmer. We overheard someone in the bar saying that it gets warmer if you go south. So we are looking for favorable winds to blow us south to warmer lands…
May Update:
Its early May and we are still at Kerrera Marina, or Hotel Kerrera as its now known. We were warned that you can check out any time you like, but you can never leave. And so it seems as we have met many people who came for a visit and are here years later. Each time a boat tries to leave it tangles its prop on a mooring line, has an engine failure, or can’t find crucial rigging that was on the boat last season.
We were ready to leave and say goodbye to Gill and Tim who run the marina and have our farewell pint in the Waypoint bar, but decided to get a last minute engine check as it was still surging on idle. The pink champagne was on ice and we remembered the day so long ago when we arrived here.
On a dark rainy Friday Freezing wind in our hair Warm smell of fresh coffees Rising up through the air Up ahead in the distance We saw a shimmering light Sails grew heavy and our wind grew light We had to stop for the night
There Gill stood in the doorway We heard the last drinks bell And we were thinking to ourselves “This could be heaven or this could be hell” Then she lit up the Waypoint She showed us the way There were voices down the corridor Thought we heard them say
Welcome to the Hotel Kerrera Such a friendly place (such a friendly place), such a friendly face There’s plenty of room at the Hotel Kerrera Any time of year (any time of year), oh, you can find it here
Her mind is marina twisted She got the fifty ton lift, uh She got a lot of pretty-pretty boys Who she calls friends How they dance in the boatyard Sweet winter sweat Some dance to remember Some dance to forget
So we called up the captain Please bring us some oil, Tim said “We haven’t had Volvo oil here since 1969” And still those voices are calling from far away Wake you up in the middle of a gale Just to hear them say
Welcome to the Hotel Kerrera Such a friendly place (such a friendly place), such a friendly face We’re living it up at the Hotel Kerrera Oh, what a nice sun rise (what a nice sun rise), hide your surprise
Burns night on the island With wee drams on ice, and she said “We are all just prisoners here of our own device” And in our engine chamber They gathered for the fix Stab it with their steely tools But they just can’t mend the beast
Last thing we remember We were running for the door Had to find the passage plan to the place we were before “Relax”, said the ferry man “We are programmed to believe” You can check out any time you like, but you can never leave
Next time we butcher the lyrics to another seventies classic and avoid going completely mad by taking a break from island and boat life: we take a trip on a different boat to different island.
Away has spent the winter at Kerrera Marina in Scotland. Kerrera is small island a 10 minute ferry ride from Oban, one of the larger towns on the west coast of Scotland.
As the days grow shorter and colder the population disappear indoors. We enjoy settling in as local’s on the island, joining yoga class, shopping in the farm shop and maintaining fitness in the rain and gales. And keeping the dog entertained with rabbits, deer, cows and sheep.
At New Years we join a traditional dance called a Ceilidh. No dancing experience or skill required, just people of all ages and backgrounds keen to have some fun. We danced until midnight and watched the fireworks from Away.
We got used to seeing the grey areas of intense winds on the forecast chart as the winter storms passed by. We’ve only sustained a couple of scratches, and one broken fender and a few ripped fender covers during the multitude of named storms this winter season.
Later in January, the Scottish poet Robert Burns is celebrated with an evening of poetry, haggis and a wee dram or two.
Soon Fi was off to Australia and our friend Nick came up for a few days. We drove up to Glencoe in some appropriate highland weather.
The marina managers also run a farm on the island and there were no shortage of volunteers to help out when one of the calves needed hand feeding four times a day.
A friend at the marina invited us out for his first sail on his boat. We started in light winds and sunshine, which can only mean one thing in Scotland…
…its about to start snowing and blowing a hooley
Next time we prepare to leave Oban and discuss our plans for this year…
Its been a little while since we blogged. Last time we spoke, we had just arrived on beautiful Kerrara to tuck in for winter. And we really have! The cold and frost is upon us, and we’re keeping our days busy with boat jobs, extra sleep ins, doggy walks and some winter keep fit activities.
We’ve also discovered a beautiful community of people here on Kerrara and I’m enjoying yoga with the girls three times a week, and beers at the pub on the weekends.
Not long after we docked, we were actually off to France to participate in the “Dare to Dream” seminar run by Garcia. Its primarily targeted at new owners, and because we’re old owners, they asked me to come along and give a bit of a talk about our experiences on the boat, what we’ve done, how we felt about it all, and of course, a bit of a chat about my Fastnet adventure. I told the lovely Garcia folk that as this was my THIRD trip to France this year, there is the distinct risk of divorce if I can’t bring my husband as well, and so that was enough for the Garcia team to be convinced that the seminar should be the “Fi and Adrian show”, not just the “Fi show”.
The seminar was to be located on the island of Tatihou on the north coast of France, quite close to Cherbourg. So we hopped on a plane from Glasgow, and into Paris for the evening, and on to Cherbourg the next day.
It was great to catch up with my Fastnet team mates Marie and Clothilde, then on to St Vaast the next morning to catch the amphibious ferry over to Tatihou.
We found ourselves in St Vaast again. St Vaast was the destination for our very first trip on Away, and Tatihou is a small island that you can walk to at low tide from St Vaast, through the oyster fields that St Vaast is so famous for. We never got to Tatihou on our first trip, as when we were walking through the oyster fields, we were told that Bernie wasn’t welcome as Tatihou is a bird sanctuary, so we turned around. So it was great to finally visit and it is beautiful!
The seminar was so much fun, and it was great to dust off my presenting skills and get up and chat and make people laugh for 90 minutes. I was pretty rusty, but eventually found my stride. I had so much fun and we ate so much beautiful French food and drank all the wine.
It was lovely to come home to Away on Kerrara and get back into our little groove here. Hiking, yoga, friends, trips into town on the ferry, boat jobs.
We did decide that we ought to go see some friends while we’re here in the UK, so one extremely chilly morning, we hopped on the train to Glasgow, hired a car and drove around England for a couple of weeks.
Our trip took us to Nottingham to see my Dad’s friends, to Oxford to look at Blenheim Palace again and check out the super cute town of Woodstock, then on to Sommerset to visit Adrian’s friends, then to Bristol to meet up with work mates, then up to Malvern to visit more work mates, then on to Cheltenham to visit more friends, then to the Lake district because its so beautiful, then the big trip home.
So, Merry Christmas dear friends and family. We are safe, warm and happy here on Kerrara and I’m recharging my sailing batteries ready for next season.
After waiting out our… well… second big Scottish blow in Malliag, we decided that given our body weight had increased last time we were here courtesy of the amazing bakery, and was continuing to do so, we should leave. This decision was also assisted by becoming too famous in the marina due to Away – she is stunning and everyone wants to talk to us, and we are introverted and we don’t want to talk to them, although we secretly like it, but we also get a little tired. Anchoring for a while is the tonic we need to recharge our batteries, while we use Away’s batteries.
We find a beautiful sunny day to head back on over to Rum, planning then to go to Dunvegan castle the next day. You might remember we went touring there with Nicole and Nick by road when they were here adventuring with us. We thought we’d go check out the anchorage and wait out the blow that was coming in that anchorage.
A lovely night on Rum, followed by a nice sail to Skye. We changed plans however part way through. The winds weren’t great, and we decided to stop near the Talisker distillery. The forecast was changing minute to minute. Safely anchored outside Talisker, we set our anchor in really well, ready for the blow.
We rediscover the distillery, and also the super great local shop, local cafe (amazing coffee and I’m Australian, so… you know its exceptional if I say that), plus an oyster shack.
Chilling out with our oysters, whisky and coffee for a day or so, we check the weather and decide that actually, this anchorage is great, its protected from the prevailing gale wind direction, so lets just wait it out.
Ok, so we waited it out. We were fine. The winds were strong, but our trusty anchor with its nice new snubber was holding like the boss it is. That was until…
The wind was due to change direction then increase to gusts of over 50 knots. We knew. BUT, our error was to not manually reset our anchor for the new wind direction. We spun around to the prevailing wind, and everything seemed absolutely fine. We assumed the anchor had reset. It had not. We were just hanging on the chain. When the wind did suddenly increase to the predicted strengths, the anchor popped out of its spot, and tried desperately to reset, but just couldn’t as it had 16 tonnes of aluminium floating at a suddenly epic pace to try to stop, plus it was probably also covered in chunks of mud. It just skipped over the sea bed.
“Adrian – we are dragging bad” – I said as I quickly got dressed and went outside to turn the motor on. We had already set the boat up to be ready for “sea” as we knew this was coming. So engine on, and I just put it in reasonable speed forward to try to buy us some time.
I wanted to go and let more chain out, but its a little complicated as we use a chain hook for the rope snubber that provides “bounce” for the anchor chain, so I would need to pull chain in, take off the hook, put chain out, put the hook back on for the snubber. Not an appealing job in the needle like rain, massive gusts and bouncing bow situation we had going on as we dragged out into the bay. I have since learned, that having the snubber attached to the chain with some velcro, and utilising a second snubber, I could just drop the first snubber, let out more chain, then attach another snubber – learnings.
Fortunately, Adrian noticed that with me driving the boat forward, we had slowed down our drag enough for our wonderful faithful anchor to grab into the seabed. And grab it did. Sure, we were basically out in the middle of the bay now, but we were stuck in properly.
We spent the night and most of the next day on anchor watch. When we had dragged it was the forecasted worst winds for this gale, so given we were stuck in now, it was okay, but I wasn’t playing with this situation. We watched.
All was well. I managed a trip to shore the next day for more oysters and supplies. Its is truly a lovely spot, and really good holding, we just learned our lesson that if the wind is predicted to suddenly smash you from a totally different direction, but starts out light in said direction, then we’ll be resetting our anchor manually.
So, after that fun, we noted the forecast was for the wind to spin around (and get quite strong again) to the opposite direction (meaning we would be blown onto the shore this time), and so we found an anchorage that would be protected from those prevailing wind conditions.
We travelled the hour or so up to our new anchorage at Loch Bharcasaig. And it was perfect. We anchored up in the evening, dug that anchor in like the dickens, and had a good sleep. The wind picked up before we went to bed, and all was well. We could sleep, we were so protected.
Knowing more gales are forecast, we elected to head back to Malliag to wait them out and eat even MORE baked goods, then further on south on to a secure marina for winter.
The gales pass as they tend to do, so after a super fun sail, playing tacking tag with another sailboat, we stopped in Tobermory which is gorgeous! Plus it has a dairy that makes yummy hard style cheese much like a cheddar. Plus another distillery. Our whisky stores are increasing.
After a beautiful sail through the sound of Mull, we arrived in Kerrara Marina just near Oban. We were (or perhaps, I was) quite finished for the season given all my racing adventures, so with some quick replanning, we negotiated with Kerrara for us to stay here for the winter. Its a beautiful island with great hikes, secure facilities, and its just a quick trip in their water taxi over to Oban which has excellent shops, pubs, connections to Glasgow plus a distillery. Happy.
We will stay here for the winter, heading home in February for a little sunshine, then continue our adventures in the new year. I’m sure we will find some breaks in the weather and get a couple of trips in over winter. The heater is working well!
Mallaig, it turns out, is a popular hub for accessing the west coast of Scotland. With one of the few train lines to the coast there is a regular influx of day trippers, walkers, and stalkers. We become familiar with the green jacketed parties boarding charter boats heading off to stalk some wildlife. Hikers abound and we later discovered many are heading to and from the most remote pub in Britain which is a boat ride away.
After locating probably the best bakery in the west of Scotland at the end of the marina we wondered if we would ever leave. But increasing girth and a rare forecast of good weather overcame our Mallaig malaise and we moseyed out to the islands.
Rum seemed an appropriate destination in part of world dominated by whisky. The island had a long history of habitation from the standing-up-stones period to the current day. Its mostly a tourist destination now for camping, walking and shooting.
Bernie demanded we head ashore for a spaniel walk to the other side of the island. It was a hot still day so we agreed and headed off on an 18km traverse of the island.
Time to move on to Skye which was only a short hop away. Relatively settled conditions meant we could try an ‘day anchorage’ with ‘the worst katabatic winds’ in Scotland.
A blow was forecast but before heading for shelter we headed to Britain’s most remote mainland pub, The Old Forge at Knoydart. Its accessible by a ‘2 day 18 mile hike’ or a somewhat shorter ferry ride from Mallaig. While most of the hiking booted punters downed pints in the manner of long distance walkers satisfied after a challenging walk, we had dinner with a chap who had run the 18 miles that afternoon. Apparently there is a free beer for achieving that feat which was enough of an incentive for some.
The next day we enjoyed the short sail back to the bakery at Mallaig for a much needed dose of scrolls, chocolate croissant, sourdough, focaccia and sausage rolls.
Next time we sit out the first winter storms and then go to a distillery to sit out some more winter storms, and head back to Mallaig before more winter storms roll in.
Last year we were lucky enough to have a guest (Tara – Adrian’s daughter) come and visit us on Away. Word must have spread because we are now on our 3rd guest visit this year and we love it! In our last post, we had Phil and Cheryl come visit for the North Sea crossing and some adventures around Norway and Scotland. This time…
It was to be in Ullapool that we would pick up one of my most oldest friends Nicci. She’s an adventurer, and one of the most fun and lovely people I know. Oh, yes and of course she’s bringing her brilliant husband, Nick along for the journey too!
We are sat on a mooring ball in Ullapool that is only *just* rated for Away, so rather than drag them out there in the choppy waters via dinghy, we thought we’d pop in to the temporary stay dock and pick them up. Away in all her glory comes on in to the dock, and we are all together with happy tears to see each other!
After a bit of a run down of the ins and outs of boating life, we have convinced Nic and Nick that we should spend the evening on anchor close by, and then do a proper 7 hour sail the next day.
After a little “beach” walk on the pebbles, we have a good sleep in this safe anchorage, and head off the next morning for our sail to the Outer Hebrides. Its a lovely sail! The wind is just forward of the beam and stays reasonably consistent, until it doesn’t and we all get a big excited with reefing, then naturally, just as we are about to get to harbour a lovely squall wanted to come and visit. No matter as we turned downwind and as it passed, we put down the sails and tied up in Stornoway in the Outer Hebrides.
Here, the weather looked like we should stay for a few nights so we hired a car and drove around the Isle of Lewis and explored loads of old things.
A few of the Lewis chessmen (curious name as some queens were discovered too) were on display here – they were discovered in a sandbank on Lewis in 1831 and are 12th century chess pieces carved from walrus ivory and whales teeth.
You may be interested to know that I have purchased a Harris Tweed headband which is in my favourite colour – matching my jacket, and my crocs too but I couldn’t wear my crocs today as it was raining and we were possibly hiking.
On the way south, we also stop in at the local museum and learn about some bronze age finds near the area, have a nice lunch and stop in at the local shop. We also buy some eggs from the side of the road which I always love! They were all different shapes and sizes.
Onwards! To the Blackhouses! The weather was perfect one minute, and squally the next. Happily we had a car and could keep Bernie dry, and get him out when we could.
Next stop in our whirlwind tour of Lewis was the Calanais Standing Stones. We arrived after the visitor centre was closed, but the stones are still open so we had a bit of a look.
Once our exploring itch was scratched and a couple of pub meals were had, we planned a passage to the Shiant Islands so go find some puffins, and then on to an anchorage, before a hike the next day, finishing with a quick sail to Tarbert on Harris.
Arriving and dropping anchor, we couldn’t find any puffins but there was an extraordinary number of gulls and shags. A quick google search enlightened us that the puffins would have left the day before for warmer pastures. Oh well. Off to our protected anchorage for the evening.
After a great sleep because the wind died off just as we anchored up, and stayed away until we started sailing the next day (amazing), we planned a short trip to Tarbert on Harris, with a stop for a lovely hike on the island of Scalpay.
This short trip involved our new autopilots helming us over to the harbour where our hike starts. We needed to time it right, because the bridge we go under was 19m high, we are 20m high, and there is a bunch of water that makes things lower or higher to consider. As it were, we timed the tide perfectly, gingerly went under the bridge with no scraping noises, and parked up on Scalpay. Back packs to the ready, we were off!
Once that epic hike was done, we were off to Tarbert for a couple of nights. Nicci and I enjoyed a cuppa inside, while Nick and Adrian motored the half an hour over to Tarbert.
For some reason, Tarbert is devoid of photographs. We visited the Harris Tweed shop, which funnily enough sold reams of tweed, and we had some food at a local cafe and visited the not whisky distillery. I’m calling it that because I fully expected whisky, but their premiere whisky batch was coming a week after we were there, instead it was gin. No matter, we bought gin.
From Tarbert, we plan a big trip to Skye. It was tantalisingly close, and keeps peeping through the clouds. Off we go, and picked out a nice anchorage for some evenings of no wind.
We decided stay on the island of Rona, just opposite Skye. There was supposed to be a lovely anchorage, deer and hikes on Rona.
After a couple of nights, Skye was calling and we saw the perfect opportunity to get out the big red sail and float on over to Portree on Skye!
We sail near a boat called “Arvik”, a French expedition boat who are raising awareness of humans impact on the oceans and on wildlife. They are making great progress with the fishing industry by helping them change small things, to make it safer for wildlife and reduce by-catch. They do however have many sad stories about things they have discovered. Its people like this that will make the world a better place. We had them over for a drink and a chat and they are really inspiring. Check them out here: http://arvikocean.org/index.php/en/home-english/
I digress, we anchor up in Portree, enjoy the super moon, and hire a car for some Skye fun, before we need to get Nic and Nick further south to Malliag where they will be leaving us to head home.
First stop the Old Man of Storr! It was featured in the Prometheus movie and Nick was keen to see. We were more than happy to oblige on this beautiful day – plus I love that movie.
After a good hike and with a tired spaniel, we drive to Dunvegan castle, home to the Macleod family for 800 years! There is an extensive collection of Jacobite relics here, including a lock of Bonnie Prince Charlie’s hair.
Next stop on our little adventure was the Talisker distillery where we tried out some of their whiskys, but neglected to take any photos though. But don’t worry, as I write this we have spent a lot of time in the area near Talisker, with some enjoyment, and also some terror. You’ll have to wait for another blog post for those shenanigans.
So, being the sober designated driver that he is, Adrian drove us to the Fairy Pools. Beautiful cascading pools where you can swim – alas you had to hike for 40 minutes, and as it was so late in the day (also whisky), we decided to enjoy the views and get back to Away to get ready for our trip the next day to Malliag.
After our Skye adventures, we head off VERY early to make sure we catch the tides through the Loch Alsh area. They can run very fast, and so up we get at 5AM ready to go by 6, and swooooosh, we get the tides.
Safely tied up in Malliag, we do a little turn about town, before enjoying our last night playing cards.
Bye Nicci and Nick! What an adventure to have my people on board. Its so nice to share a little more of my life now, and it was so nice to see my wonderful friends. See you soon!!!!!!
After Fi got back from the Fastnet, we went straight to a sauna, to break the news to her that we could be doing the north sea crossing the next day.
“No…” Fi said, even after this relaxing sauna, and that was settled.
Instead, we compromised and did a passage from Trondheim to Kristiansand where we could check out from Norway and cross the North Sea to Scotland. Finally. We were supposed to do this crossing last year but we left it too late because we fell in love with Norway.
We also had our lovely friends visiting from America! Yay visitors! We love sharing this adventure with our loved ones and we hadn’t seen Phil or Cheryl since our canal boat adventures together.
We had chosen what we thought was the best weather window, catching the good winds at the edge of a storm that had developed over south western Norway before it engulfed the coast in strong winds and rain for a week. And indeed, it was PERFECT!!
We avoided the oil rigs, and played the usual games with the fishing people. They like doing fun things at night. This night they stop right in front of our track and spawn some new AIS targets. We gybe away and they turn around and go parallel with our new course leaving their spawned AIS targets behind. We call them to ask them what in the world they are doing and is it safe for us to gybe again to pass between them and the other AIS targets. All settled we gybe again and head for the Shetlands.
After about 42 hours we arrive in Lerwick and clear into the UK. It had been a fast a relatively uneventful passage matching closely with the weather predictions. Rather than go to town, we decided to stop in a quiet anchorage and enjoy our first Scottish gale. Phil and Cheryl go into Lerwick for provisions while Adrian and I stay on the boat watching the gusts.
After a few days of this, the wind decided to abate, and we sailed south to the Orkneys and another anchorage. We are just so amazed at how different the landscape is here from what we have been seeing the past year. North Orkney was flat!
Next its on to Kirkwall. We see castles and tidal currents – ah yes, we are back in the land of thinking about tides. Phil and Cheryl say goodbye to us here after their (and our) first North Sea crossing!
Adrian and I chose to stay in Kirkwall for a few days to do some shopping. We even ended up at the local agricultural fair and wondered if we needed a tractor.
Next up, we have some fun getting to Ullapool.
Before leaving Kirkwall, we walk to the beach where the wreck of the Royal Oak lies, and tried to get into the distillery but the coos said no.
Another beautiful day arrives so we leave to motor/sail around the island and through the tidal gates to Stromness. We were met by friendly locals who caught our lines and told us all the ins and outs of town. We were keen to see some old stuff, so we got our bikes out and took the 40 minute bike ride out to Scara Brae, a neolithic site that was uncovered by a storm in the late 1800s. Its amazingly intact, and old.
We had been in Scotland a week without visiting any stone circle so we set out to visit the local upright stones. Very Scottish. No time travel today though.
BUT – we have more guests arriving and we need to get to mainland Scotland! The rather scary sounding Cape Wrath needed to be rounded with a wide berth according to the charts. We find some perfect sailing weather and sail south west to the mainland. Cape Wrath was conserving its wrath, and we slid down the coast to a gorgeous little anchorage.
‘One of the most protected anchorages in the area’ the guide book said. Add storm Betty and it was soon gusting over 40 knots casting doubt on the shelter of other anchorages in the area. The anchor snubber even decided it was reaching the end of its life and started to unravel. So we couldn’t stay in this lovely place as the wind was forecast to get even stronger, so we had to brave the gale and get out into the sea to head further south to find better protection.
After a lively upwind sail in over 30 knots we arrived at Lochinver marina where cruising guides promised more ‘protection’. Happily, when we docked, the wind had abated temporarily, and we stayed in the marina whilst yet another gale passed overhead, clocking wind speeds of 50 knots. Ahhh Scotland! We heard it was lovely sailing, then waiting out a gale.
From Lockinver it was just one more hop down to Ullapool, and a sufficiently rated mooring ball for us, where we could pick up our friends from Sydney!
Next time, we pick up our new guests and manage to see the Outer Hebrides and Skye!
Join Fi, Adrian and Bernie as we adventure where the wind takes us.