Sailing & Other Adventures

Category: Trip (Page 2 of 12)

The trip the event was part of

Sorry… why are we doing this? Whisky.

By Fi

After waiting out our… well… second big Scottish blow in Malliag, we decided that given our body weight had increased last time we were here courtesy of the amazing bakery, and was continuing to do so, we should leave. This decision was also assisted by becoming too famous in the marina due to Away – she is stunning and everyone wants to talk to us, and we are introverted and we don’t want to talk to them, although we secretly like it, but we also get a little tired. Anchoring for a while is the tonic we need to recharge our batteries, while we use Away’s batteries.

Away looks so special in Malliag.

We find a beautiful sunny day to head back on over to Rum, planning then to go to Dunvegan castle the next day. You might remember we went touring there with Nicole and Nick by road when they were here adventuring with us. We thought we’d go check out the anchorage and wait out the blow that was coming in that anchorage.

The red sky in the morning on the island of Rum, before the storm.

A lovely night on Rum, followed by a nice sail to Skye. We changed plans however part way through. The winds weren’t great, and we decided to stop near the Talisker distillery. The forecast was changing minute to minute. Safely anchored outside Talisker, we set our anchor in really well, ready for the blow.

Away anchored opposite the Talisker distillery. Picture taken from the oyster shop.

We rediscover the distillery, and also the super great local shop, local cafe (amazing coffee and I’m Australian, so… you know its exceptional if I say that), plus an oyster shack.

Chilling out with our oysters, whisky and coffee for a day or so, we check the weather and decide that actually, this anchorage is great, its protected from the prevailing gale wind direction, so lets just wait it out.

Get ready.

Ok, so we waited it out. We were fine. The winds were strong, but our trusty anchor with its nice new snubber was holding like the boss it is. That was until…

Hmmm, about a 60m drag.

The wind was due to change direction then increase to gusts of over 50 knots. We knew. BUT, our error was to not manually reset our anchor for the new wind direction. We spun around to the prevailing wind, and everything seemed absolutely fine. We assumed the anchor had reset. It had not. We were just hanging on the chain. When the wind did suddenly increase to the predicted strengths, the anchor popped out of its spot, and tried desperately to reset, but just couldn’t as it had 16 tonnes of aluminium floating at a suddenly epic pace to try to stop, plus it was probably also covered in chunks of mud. It just skipped over the sea bed.

“Adrian – we are dragging bad” – I said as I quickly got dressed and went outside to turn the motor on. We had already set the boat up to be ready for “sea” as we knew this was coming. So engine on, and I just put it in reasonable speed forward to try to buy us some time.

I wanted to go and let more chain out, but its a little complicated as we use a chain hook for the rope snubber that provides “bounce” for the anchor chain, so I would need to pull chain in, take off the hook, put chain out, put the hook back on for the snubber. Not an appealing job in the needle like rain, massive gusts and bouncing bow situation we had going on as we dragged out into the bay. I have since learned, that having the snubber attached to the chain with some velcro, and utilising a second snubber, I could just drop the first snubber, let out more chain, then attach another snubber – learnings.

Fortunately, Adrian noticed that with me driving the boat forward, we had slowed down our drag enough for our wonderful faithful anchor to grab into the seabed. And grab it did. Sure, we were basically out in the middle of the bay now, but we were stuck in properly.

We spent the night and most of the next day on anchor watch. When we had dragged it was the forecasted worst winds for this gale, so given we were stuck in now, it was okay, but I wasn’t playing with this situation. We watched.

All was well. I managed a trip to shore the next day for more oysters and supplies. Its is truly a lovely spot, and really good holding, we just learned our lesson that if the wind is predicted to suddenly smash you from a totally different direction, but starts out light in said direction, then we’ll be resetting our anchor manually.

So, after that fun, we noted the forecast was for the wind to spin around (and get quite strong again) to the opposite direction (meaning we would be blown onto the shore this time), and so we found an anchorage that would be protected from those prevailing wind conditions.

We travelled the hour or so up to our new anchorage at Loch Bharcasaig. And it was perfect. We anchored up in the evening, dug that anchor in like the dickens, and had a good sleep. The wind picked up before we went to bed, and all was well. We could sleep, we were so protected.

Beautiful anchorage well protected from the north and west. This was our view to the south.

Knowing more gales are forecast, we elected to head back to Malliag to wait them out and eat even MORE baked goods, then further on south on to a secure marina for winter.

Gales gales gales forecast. Autumnal weather.
On a dog walk around Mallaig one day, I waved at the driver of the Harry Potter train, and people in the carriages thought I was waving at them so then I waved at them as well and ended up waving to the entire train as it went past. It was the BEST fun!
We took a train trip to Fort William so Bernie could have his yearly vaccinations. Enjoyed the pub and a walk around Fort William. Happy to not be sailing this day as the gale was in full swing.
The Harry Potter train runs on the same line as the Malliag/Fort William regular train so we got to meet these guys while we waited for our train.
Using the regular train service, you still get to go over the Glenfinnian Viaduct, made particularly famous in the Harry Potter films when Ron and Harry are flying in the car. Its beautiful, and a lot cheaper at 9 pounds for the ticket, as opposed to 90 for the Harry Potter train. But steam train enthusiasts would love the Harry Potter train.

The gales pass as they tend to do, so after a super fun sail, playing tacking tag with another sailboat, we stopped in Tobermory which is gorgeous! Plus it has a dairy that makes yummy hard style cheese much like a cheddar. Plus another distillery. Our whisky stores are increasing.

Tacking tag was super fun in the Sound of Mull.
Isle of Mull cheese make yummy cheeses and you can visit the dairy for lunch and cake and buy yummy things from their farm shop.
This vine covers the glass house cafe and was planted decades ago. It provides shade in summer and the leaves fall in autumn to allow the winter sun in. Beautiful.
Our view with coffee and cake from the cafe at the dairy.
Tobermory is colourful and well worth a visit.
Sailing to Oban was grey, but great wind for sailing.

After a beautiful sail through the sound of Mull, we arrived in Kerrara Marina just near Oban. We were (or perhaps, I was) quite finished for the season given all my racing adventures, so with some quick replanning, we negotiated with Kerrara for us to stay here for the winter. Its a beautiful island with great hikes, secure facilities, and its just a quick trip in their water taxi over to Oban which has excellent shops, pubs, connections to Glasgow plus a distillery. Happy.

Our wind instruments had broken, so up I go to the top of Away to replace with a new one. Beautiful Kerrara Marina on a still sunny day. Not seeing too many of those lately.
It doesn’t look that high from the ground, but when I’m up here… Whoo its high!
We take Bernie to Dunollie Castle for a look around. Its on the headland opposite Kerrara.
I suspect he was more concerned that there was no food to clean up on the ground.
But it was good exercise and new sniffings.
View north from Kerrara on a gorgeous day. Perfect sailing weather!
A quick trip on the water taxi takes us into the main Oban town for provisioning.
Oban is one of the busiest ports in Scotland.
But Kerrara is just busy with cows.

We will stay here for the winter, heading home in February for a little sunshine, then continue our adventures in the new year. I’m sure we will find some breaks in the weather and get a couple of trips in over winter. The heater is working well!

Mostly sky. Occasionally Skye

By Adrian

Mallaig, it turns out, is a popular hub for accessing the west coast of Scotland. With one of the few train lines to the coast there is a regular influx of day trippers, walkers, and stalkers. We become familiar with the green jacketed parties boarding charter boats heading off to stalk some wildlife. Hikers abound and we later discovered many are heading to and from the most remote pub in Britain which is a boat ride away.

After locating probably the best bakery in the west of Scotland at the end of the marina we wondered if we would ever leave. But increasing girth and a rare forecast of good weather overcame our Mallaig malaise and we moseyed out to the islands.

Away discreetly hiding at the end of the marina dock
UK signage has a certain clarity not found in other English speaking parts of the world. I wonder what tourists with limited English think this means?

Rum seemed an appropriate destination in part of world dominated by whisky. The island had a long history of habitation from the standing-up-stones period to the current day. Its mostly a tourist destination now for camping, walking and shooting.

There were mooring buoys for visitors, but we chose the quieter anchoring option on a windless evening. I suppose I should mention this isn’t us, simply a nice neighbour who had the same idea, on a beautiful morning.
In 1888 John Bullough bought the island and his son later built this cottage to accommodate a few friends on hunting trips. Its not open to the public at the moment so we had to make do with a walk by. Seemed like nice spot for the weekend with a few friends. In recent years there have been several attempts to buy and renovate the property, but a deal is yet to be made.
250 000 ton of soil were imported for the gardens. Of course there is a sprung dance floor, a squash court, a golf course and a bowling green for when guests run out of things to shoot.

Bernie demanded we head ashore for a spaniel walk to the other side of the island. It was a hot still day so we agreed and headed off on an 18km traverse of the island.

Yep that’s a location appropriate thistle with Away in the background.
We shot these deer with Skye towering in the background.
We sat by the beach for lunch. Definitely a walking day. Not good for sailing.
Suddenly there was a big bellowing sound and everyone looked around.
Deary me, we were staggered. He had been sitting in plain sight and we hadn’t spotted him till he stood up to survey his kingdom
It was a hot day but Bernie discovered the muddy drainage ditches along side the track were ideal to cool ones paws, and tummy, and ears, and tail. I think its going to be a dog bath day!
As we got back to the boat the coastguard helicopter swooped into the bay and landed in front of the castle. We expect someone was suffering from heat stroke after temperatures had soared into the early twenties that day.
After a hot sunny day we knew what was coming.
Some Scottish atmosphere drifted across the bay.

Time to move on to Skye which was only a short hop away. Relatively settled conditions meant we could try an ‘day anchorage’ with ‘the worst katabatic winds’ in Scotland.

Skye is mostly sky, but occasionally Skye
We braved the grey and went ashore for a quick look. But it wasn’t till the next day that we discovered why there is a steady stream of tourist boats arriving here.
Plenty of Scottish drama: lake, waterfalls, rapids and a hut run by the Junior Mountaineering Club of Scotland, Glasgow Section.
We didn’t need to go far to find the lake and spectacular scenery
Bernie was happy to be on land but we were all a bit tired from our long walk on Rum.
Skye with less sky.
Bernie knows the dinghy means adventures and will jump in, just in case, even if we are not going anywhere.
Leaving the anchorage the seals and shags were wildly excited to see Away pass close by.
This one even looked up. It was probably the last sun they would see in days so sun baking was more important than passing vessels.
We were heading back to the coast when we spotted one of the more remote beach houses on Skye

A blow was forecast but before heading for shelter we headed to Britain’s most remote mainland pub, The Old Forge at Knoydart. Its accessible by a ‘2 day 18 mile hike’ or a somewhat shorter ferry ride from Mallaig. While most of the hiking booted punters downed pints in the manner of long distance walkers satisfied after a challenging walk, we had dinner with a chap who had run the 18 miles that afternoon. Apparently there is a free beer for achieving that feat which was enough of an incentive for some.

Few things better in life that looking out of a pub window at your safely moored house.

The next day we enjoyed the short sail back to the bakery at Mallaig for a much needed dose of scrolls, chocolate croissant, sourdough, focaccia and sausage rolls.

Mallaig is also the destination for the ‘Harry Potter train’. It had arrived at the station so we had a look and a quick chat to the driver.
Fi chose a suitably contrasting outfit for her portrait in front of the locomotive.

Next time we sit out the first winter storms and then go to a distillery to sit out some more winter storms, and head back to Mallaig before more winter storms roll in.

Sharing the Outer Hebrides and Skye

By Fi

Last year we were lucky enough to have a guest (Tara – Adrian’s daughter) come and visit us on Away. Word must have spread because we are now on our 3rd guest visit this year and we love it! In our last post, we had Phil and Cheryl come visit for the North Sea crossing and some adventures around Norway and Scotland. This time…

It was to be in Ullapool that we would pick up one of my most oldest friends Nicci. She’s an adventurer, and one of the most fun and lovely people I know. Oh, yes and of course she’s bringing her brilliant husband, Nick along for the journey too!

Ullapool is a pretty place. We thought it would be really industrial after reading the descriptions on the cruising guides, but it was really quaint!

We are sat on a mooring ball in Ullapool that is only *just* rated for Away, so rather than drag them out there in the choppy waters via dinghy, we thought we’d pop in to the temporary stay dock and pick them up. Away in all her glory comes on in to the dock, and we are all together with happy tears to see each other!

Here we goooo! Ready for some adventures!

After a bit of a run down of the ins and outs of boating life, we have convinced Nic and Nick that we should spend the evening on anchor close by, and then do a proper 7 hour sail the next day.

Adrian getting straight into his sailing teacher get up.
This is definitely my happy face.
Pretty anchorage, and all the fashionistas on the beach.
Even with the grey, the colours are magic.

After a little “beach” walk on the pebbles, we have a good sleep in this safe anchorage, and head off the next morning for our sail to the Outer Hebrides. Its a lovely sail! The wind is just forward of the beam and stays reasonably consistent, until it doesn’t and we all get a big excited with reefing, then naturally, just as we are about to get to harbour a lovely squall wanted to come and visit. No matter as we turned downwind and as it passed, we put down the sails and tied up in Stornoway in the Outer Hebrides.

Yes it was cold and grey. But the wind was great!
She’s smiling (and not just because she’s wearing red crocs)!
Getting towards the harbour, and we got smacked with a squall. Sails to the ready, we were okay and could turn downwind while it passed, taking the sails in a few moments later.
Bernie loves having new friends. Well, old friends, but new company.
Tied up safely in Stornoway, we heard bagpipes the next morning!

Here, the weather looked like we should stay for a few nights so we hired a car and drove around the Isle of Lewis and explored loads of old things.

Near the Marina is Lews Castle. Once owned by a mean drug dealer, it is now a lovely hotel with a tea room, museum and lovely gardens to explore.

A few of the Lewis chessmen (curious name as some queens were discovered too) were on display here – they were discovered in a sandbank on Lewis in 1831 and are 12th century chess pieces carved from walrus ivory and whales teeth.

We had a little look at the museum, and took Bernie for a walk around on this lovely sunny day!
We see this little one on the path and all rush up to take photos. It just decided to face the wall ad pretend like we weren’t there. Poor thing. Sooo cute though! Never seen one before! Little hedgehog.
First stop on our road trip was Scotland’s largest standing stone – Clach An Truishal Standing Stone. Its very large. A princess lives inside but she didn’t answer when we knocked. We also tried to take a decent family photo but its just resulted in me looking like I’m relieving myself on the dog. Payback?

You may be interested to know that I have purchased a Harris Tweed headband which is in my favourite colour – matching my jacket, and my crocs too but I couldn’t wear my crocs today as it was raining and we were possibly hiking.

Perhaps we will learn from Nic and Nick how to take a nice photo.
Next stop was the Butt of Lewis Lighthouse and this amazing view.
We forgot to take a photo of the lighthouse…
Because we were too busy giggling about taking photos of each other.
Our next stop was the Port of Ness beach, and a little explore around.
It DID NOT look like a harbour we were going to safely squeeze Away into any time soon.

On the way south, we also stop in at the local museum and learn about some bronze age finds near the area, have a nice lunch and stop in at the local shop. We also buy some eggs from the side of the road which I always love! They were all different shapes and sizes.

Onwards! To the Blackhouses! The weather was perfect one minute, and squally the next. Happily we had a car and could keep Bernie dry, and get him out when we could.

The Gearrannan Blackhouse Village was built in the 1800s. Each house it built on a slope, and the animals would live in the lower section, and would warm the building. There were no internal walls originally. People were living here until the 1970s (the did put in internal walls, and the animals were removed by then).
I listen intently to the old mate with the stories by the peat fire. Apparently when the last people who lived here were sent to council housing, the Scottish Trust took over and in the 90s restored them.
Most houses in the village are now accommodation (inclusive of internal walls, electricity and running water). Its a beautiful spot.

Next stop in our whirlwind tour of Lewis was the Calanais Standing Stones. We arrived after the visitor centre was closed, but the stones are still open so we had a bit of a look.

Very eerie. Its nice because unlike Stonehenge, you can walk right up to and around these guys.
Almost a nice family photo…
This is the main site. There are 3 other sites that you can also visit very close by. Why were these even built??? Also how did I get a shot with NO ONE in it? Talent that is.
On the drive back to Away, we see some red deer in the field off to the side of the road.

Once our exploring itch was scratched and a couple of pub meals were had, we planned a passage to the Shiant Islands so go find some puffins, and then on to an anchorage, before a hike the next day, finishing with a quick sail to Tarbert on Harris.

Happy but cold faces.
Oh look its grey!

Arriving and dropping anchor, we couldn’t find any puffins but there was an extraordinary number of gulls and shags. A quick google search enlightened us that the puffins would have left the day before for warmer pastures. Oh well. Off to our protected anchorage for the evening.

Happy, but no puffins face. Apparently they left the day before we got there for warmer weather.

After a great sleep because the wind died off just as we anchored up, and stayed away until we started sailing the next day (amazing), we planned a short trip to Tarbert on Harris, with a stop for a lovely hike on the island of Scalpay.

Our stunning anchorage for the evening. The Antares charts (our cruising MUST HAVE for this area) say this is in their top 10 in Scotland.

This short trip involved our new autopilots helming us over to the harbour where our hike starts. We needed to time it right, because the bridge we go under was 19m high, we are 20m high, and there is a bunch of water that makes things lower or higher to consider. As it were, we timed the tide perfectly, gingerly went under the bridge with no scraping noises, and parked up on Scalpay. Back packs to the ready, we were off!

New autopilot doing a great job!
Bernie is loving walking with his crew.
Happy to be sharing this adventure together!
Skye is there somewhere!
The heather is beautiful and in full bloom.
Happy because we remembered to take a photo of a lighthouse!
And we finally get a nice family photo.

Once that epic hike was done, we were off to Tarbert for a couple of nights. Nicci and I enjoyed a cuppa inside, while Nick and Adrian motored the half an hour over to Tarbert.

For some reason, Tarbert is devoid of photographs. We visited the Harris Tweed shop, which funnily enough sold reams of tweed, and we had some food at a local cafe and visited the not whisky distillery. I’m calling it that because I fully expected whisky, but their premiere whisky batch was coming a week after we were there, instead it was gin. No matter, we bought gin.

Nicci did take a nice photo of the 3 of us in Tarbert!

From Tarbert, we plan a big trip to Skye. It was tantalisingly close, and keeps peeping through the clouds. Off we go, and picked out a nice anchorage for some evenings of no wind.

And WOW the amount of dolphins! We haven’t seen this many since we were sailing the NSW coast.

We decided stay on the island of Rona, just opposite Skye. There was supposed to be a lovely anchorage, deer and hikes on Rona.

This little girl appeared on the hill top while we were enjoying sundowners.
Beautiful spot to park, then repark Away. It was a very tight and shallow spot, so we anchored, then reanchored so that I could get some sleep.
Hiking on the island was boggy but beautiful. We saw our dolphin friends in the bay opposite, and a cave church thing.
Lovely no wind anchorage. And sunshine. The island also produces its own venison and sells it with an honesty system. We picked up a few frozen packages for later.

After a couple of nights, Skye was calling and we saw the perfect opportunity to get out the big red sail and float on over to Portree on Skye!

Lookin spesh.
And our dolphin friends came back to say hello!
Happy sailors!

We sail near a boat called “Arvik”, a French expedition boat who are raising awareness of humans impact on the oceans and on wildlife. They are making great progress with the fishing industry by helping them change small things, to make it safer for wildlife and reduce by-catch. They do however have many sad stories about things they have discovered. Its people like this that will make the world a better place. We had them over for a drink and a chat and they are really inspiring. Check them out here: http://arvikocean.org/index.php/en/home-english/

In this picture, they have a tonne of rubbish they have picked up on the bow. Can you see the broken mooring ball? It had washed up somewhere and they collected it for proper disposal. Amazing humans.

I digress, we anchor up in Portree, enjoy the super moon, and hire a car for some Skye fun, before we need to get Nic and Nick further south to Malliag where they will be leaving us to head home.

SUPER MOON! Of course in the photo it looks like nothing, but in real life – SUPER.
Heading into town to go pick up our car and also have some breaky.

First stop the Old Man of Storr! It was featured in the Prometheus movie and Nick was keen to see. We were more than happy to oblige on this beautiful day – plus I love that movie.

Taking photos of each other taking photos again.
Happy couple!
Mutual scifi fans.
No way… Another nice family photo?

After a good hike and with a tired spaniel, we drive to Dunvegan castle, home to the Macleod family for 800 years! There is an extensive collection of Jacobite relics here, including a lock of Bonnie Prince Charlie’s hair.

Lovely castle. I believe they still live here. Extensive castle grounds too with amazing gardens.
This is actually an anchorage. Perhaps we will come back?
I rescued Bernie from car prison so he could also enjoy the gardens once we were done in the castle.

Next stop on our little adventure was the Talisker distillery where we tried out some of their whiskys, but neglected to take any photos though. But don’t worry, as I write this we have spent a lot of time in the area near Talisker, with some enjoyment, and also some terror. You’ll have to wait for another blog post for those shenanigans.

So, being the sober designated driver that he is, Adrian drove us to the Fairy Pools. Beautiful cascading pools where you can swim – alas you had to hike for 40 minutes, and as it was so late in the day (also whisky), we decided to enjoy the views and get back to Away to get ready for our trip the next day to Malliag.

The pools are up along this track for about 40 minutes. Perhaps we will get back here one day.
Yep amazing. The heather is still out. Scotland is gorgeous.
There are some pre-pool pools to enjoy.

After our Skye adventures, we head off VERY early to make sure we catch the tides through the Loch Alsh area. They can run very fast, and so up we get at 5AM ready to go by 6, and swooooosh, we get the tides.

Away at anchor in Portree.
Yeah I might look happy, but mornings are not my thing. I’m happy because we left in time, would get the right tides and would get to Malliag before the wind picked up drastically.
Pretty sunrise. I include this as I don’t often see it. Its quite nice really.
It may not look like it, but we are hooting along in the current. We had to motor this leg, because there was absolutely no wind, and we needed to get Nic and Nick to Malliag. The wind was due later, but in the totally wrong direction for us, and I didn’t fancy putting them through tacking in tight channels as their last goodbye to sailing with us.
It was an EARLY start so Nicci enjoyed a nap in all her clothes in the sunshine. It was really chilly!

Safely tied up in Malliag, we do a little turn about town, before enjoying our last night playing cards.

Malliag harbour. Really safe, really nice, and with an excellent bakery – that was shut because we arrived late.
I promise I wasn’t cheating.

Bye Nicci and Nick! What an adventure to have my people on board. Its so nice to share a little more of my life now, and it was so nice to see my wonderful friends. See you soon!!!!!!

Lets go to Scotland

After Fi got back from the Fastnet, we went straight to a sauna, to break the news to her that we could be doing the north sea crossing the next day.

“No…” Fi said, even after this relaxing sauna, and that was settled.

Instead, we compromised and did a passage from Trondheim to Kristiansand where we could check out from Norway and cross the North Sea to Scotland. Finally. We were supposed to do this crossing last year but we left it too late because we fell in love with Norway.

We sent Fi up the mast for a pre North Sea crossing rig inspection
All rigging checked and we are ready to go once we get Fi down

We also had our lovely friends visiting from America! Yay visitors! We love sharing this adventure with our loved ones and we hadn’t seen Phil or Cheryl since our canal boat adventures together.

We had chosen what we thought was the best weather window, catching the good winds at the edge of a storm that had developed over south western Norway before it engulfed the coast in strong winds and rain for a week. And indeed, it was PERFECT!!

The local fish restaurant has been recommended and didn’t disappoint.
After checking out we left the dock early the next morning.
Kristiansund harbour. Our last port in Norway.
Whales pop up to say goodbye.
This boat was parked exactly on the waypoint we had plotted. We decided to go around it.
Another cruising boat passes at sunset.

We avoided the oil rigs, and played the usual games with the fishing people. They like doing fun things at night. This night they stop right in front of our track and spawn some new AIS targets. We gybe away and they turn around and go parallel with our new course leaving their spawned AIS targets behind. We call them to ask them what in the world they are doing and is it safe for us to gybe again to pass between them and the other AIS targets. All settled we gybe again and head for the Shetlands.

We turned left to avoid two fishing boats. They spawned 4 other fishing boats and then headed off in the opposite direction. We turn and go between the newly spawned and old fishing boats.
There is actual night time now.

After about 42 hours we arrive in Lerwick and clear into the UK. It had been a fast a relatively uneventful passage matching closely with the weather predictions. Rather than go to town, we decided to stop in a quiet anchorage and enjoy our first Scottish gale. Phil and Cheryl go into Lerwick for provisions while Adrian and I stay on the boat watching the gusts.

We pass our first Broch… An iron age dry stone castle.
Our first anchorage in the Shetland Islands.
Away sits out a blow in a somewhat sheltered bay.

After a few days of this, the wind decided to abate, and we sailed south to the Orkneys and another anchorage. We are just so amazed at how different the landscape is here from what we have been seeing the past year. North Orkney was flat!

Wondering where all the mountains are.
Its not all hard work on passage.

Next its on to Kirkwall. We see castles and tidal currents – ah yes, we are back in the land of thinking about tides. Phil and Cheryl say goodbye to us here after their (and our) first North Sea crossing!

They do wee country cottages proper here.

Adrian and I chose to stay in Kirkwall for a few days to do some shopping. We even ended up at the local agricultural fair and wondered if we needed a tractor.

It was all Romans and donuts at the local show.
Some rather clever dogs tried to teach Bernie how to herd geese, but it didn’t really rub off on him.

Next up, we have some fun getting to Ullapool.

Before leaving Kirkwall, we walk to the beach where the wreck of the Royal Oak lies, and tried to get into the distillery but the coos said no.

Coos say no.
The south side of the Orkney Islands get more dramatic.

Another beautiful day arrives so we leave to motor/sail around the island and through the tidal gates to Stromness. We were met by friendly locals who caught our lines and told us all the ins and outs of town. We were keen to see some old stuff, so we got our bikes out and took the 40 minute bike ride out to Scara Brae, a neolithic site that was uncovered by a storm in the late 1800s. Its amazingly intact, and old.

Neolithic buildings were primitive but very solid.
4000 years later things have changed a bit in Stromness.
We passed the home of a legendary figure in Australian history!

We had been in Scotland a week without visiting any stone circle so we set out to visit the local upright stones. Very Scottish. No time travel today though.

Standing stones, tick.

BUT – we have more guests arriving and we need to get to mainland Scotland! The rather scary sounding Cape Wrath needed to be rounded with a wide berth according to the charts. We find some perfect sailing weather and sail south west to the mainland. Cape Wrath was conserving its wrath, and we slid down the coast to a gorgeous little anchorage.

Leaving Stromness at dawn.
Not much wrath today.

‘One of the most protected anchorages in the area’ the guide book said. Add storm Betty and it was soon gusting over 40 knots casting doubt on the shelter of other anchorages in the area. The anchor snubber even decided it was reaching the end of its life and started to unravel. So we couldn’t stay in this lovely place as the wind was forecast to get even stronger, so we had to brave the gale and get out into the sea to head further south to find better protection.

Sheltered they said… from what we wonder?
No ocean swell but plenty of wind chop. Sailing up wind is all fun!

After a lively upwind sail in over 30 knots we arrived at Lochinver marina where cruising guides promised more ‘protection’. Happily, when we docked, the wind had abated temporarily, and we stayed in the marina whilst yet another gale passed overhead, clocking wind speeds of 50 knots. Ahhh Scotland! We heard it was lovely sailing, then waiting out a gale.

Away snuggled into the harbour.

From Lockinver it was just one more hop down to Ullapool, and a sufficiently rated mooring ball for us, where we could pick up our friends from Sydney!

We had imagined Ullapool to be quite commercial, but the loch was picturesque

Next time, we pick up our new guests and manage to see the Outer Hebrides and Skye!

Sniffin Bronny and Tronheim

With Fi heading off for a warm up race and then the notorious Fastnet, Bernie and I set about sniffing our way around Brønnøysund and then Trondheim.

Bernie watched Fi disappear into the airport terminal and was convinced we shouldn’t leave without her.
We amused ourselves with goings on in the harbour. These people were loading enough food on their tiny boat for an Atlantic crossing.
In Norway, if you climb a hill you will likely find a WW2 gun emplacement. The Germans invested a lot of resources into coastal defenses and much of it is surprisingly intact. Sure enough…
There was a spotlight that looked like it just needed a new bulb but we didn’t understand enough German to get the generator going.
This hole led to more underground rooms and fortifications
The flowers exploded into the short summer season
Bernie was wary, then suspicious and eventually curious of the hundreds of automatic lawn mowers. One drove straight up to the path we were on, received an appropriate barking, turned around and headed back to its hutch.
The race had started and we were glued to our screen following commander Bernard, following the fleet across the channel
Right in the middle of Brønnøysund there was one plot with no automatic lawn mower
One day I announced that Fi would be returning soon, and we could tell here all about our vet visit and upcoming operation.
And we were soon on the move again to get to Trondheim, the airport for the next race and the location for Bernie’s little op.
After a sporty sail down the coast we stayed at Leka, a small Island for the night.
Outside Trondheim we spotted some traditional sailing craft like the one we saw in Brønnøysund.
A line of thunderstorms welcomed us to Trondheim. We didn’t get hit by lightening but the atmospheric conditions played with the wind instruments that showed over 80 knts wind speed, with no actual wind.
Trondheim is an attractive town with many older buildings. Bernie and I set about sniffing every inch of the city.
They have erected a statue of a man easting an ice cream to distract the seagulls from the real thing below. We need one of these at Manly beach in Sydney.
Trondheim uses the full Norwegian colour palette
Whilst Bernie had a big sleep they chopped a lump out of his leg. It later turned out to be benign.
Bernie woke up with a cone on his head. He soon figured out that if he charged around the boat thrashing his head around, everyone got out of his way.
We found the river in Trondheim that sweeps through parks and old buildings.
He loved his cone…
We moved to a new harbour in the centre of Trondheim in anticipation of international guests arriving.
The world watched as Emma closed in on the legendary Fastnet rock
Bernie went back to the vet to get his stitches removed. He was so excited to come home with a bigger cone!
The music museum and more importantly the waffle stall were at the end of the dock.
This is the oldest commercial steam vessel in Norway and does tourist trips on the fjord.
We found a cannon that was so poorly designed it needed extra legs so it didn’t overbalance.
Eventually it was time for our triumphant Fastnet warrior to return. Would she understand I had been to Hell and back to bring her home?
A sauna is the best welcome home!
And a trip up the mast to dry off…

After a month in harbour it was time to cross the sea to a new country.

Goodbye Arctic: sharks, glaciers and mad walks

Our time in our remote granite walled anchorage came to an end and we motored out looking for wind. We needed to get south to find an airport for Fi’s next adventure.

The wind in northern Norway at this time of year had not been big red sail wind. Big wind shifts and constantly weaving between islands doesn’t make the big red sail happy. But today we had some open water and found a consistent (ish) light breeze.

We sailed with Lofoten visible in the distance to contrast the big red sail.

Whales passed us, then we spotted dolphins and then…

We thought some dolphins had come to play, but as they approached we realised they were actually small sharks! I grabbed the phone, quickly tried to turn it on three times and snapped this memorable image of sharks with Lofoten in the background!
During the evening the wind was too light even for big red. But the reflections were kind of cool.

We were expecting a more modest anchorage after the previous few nights, but it looked ok as we pulled up near a white sandy beach and a whale swam past us heading south. Summer in Norway is absolute bliss.

Even by our new high standards this was a pretty spectacular spot and not too crowded.
Next day we had a look around while we waited for the wind to fill in.
There were some pretty bays.
And some sandy beaches. A dip in the water was as breathtaking as the scenery.

At lunch time we headed off to make the best of some northerly winds.

Big red sail two days in a row! This island was our view for 6 hours as we headed down the coast.
An AIS target called ‘Norwegian Submarine’ appeared, so we sped up to make sure we passed as close as possible. Sure enough it was a Norwegian submarine, or perhaps a foreign submarine cleverly disguised as a Norwegian submarine.

We made the most of the northerly winds and sailed into the ‘night’. The wind finally died as we closed in on the coast and we motored the last few miles into Bolga around 2 am.

Sunglasses and beanie are mandatory equipment for a midnight watch and firing the laser.
As midnight struck we energized the flag pole laser and shot a hole in the sky.
We burned this hole in the sky which looked quite pretty, although there was nobody else around to appreciate it.

With wind from the south for a few days we decided to rest, regain our sanity and explore Bolga.

The season for growing is short, so lush green and colour appear almost overnight as the grey and white receed.
In Australia this would be fenced off with some over judicious signage warning us of certain peril. In Norway its the not-wheelchair-friendly part of the intermediate round-the-island walk. The useful rope has no doubt been added after too many tourists slid from the slippery rocks into the just-above-freezing water, especially when there is snow and ice on the rocks.
Of course when you have this level of natural balance and ability to find those micro finger holds there is not much to go wrong. It looks like I have a chalk bag which is standard equipment on an intermediate walk, but its just a poo bag holder.
Bernie watched on as we showed him where the best paw holds were after falling in the water.

The island had been home to fishing people who dried ship loads of fish on the rocks during summer until the early 1900s. We chose to traverse the south side of the island first as it was open the squally southerly weather. This is Norway so the protected northern side was also somehow open to the squally southerly weather.

The path headed up a cliff and some non wheelchair friendly sections where even big ears needed a lift. And then, Mum are you sure we go into that hole?
Yes Bernie, you should know by now, all island walks in Norway go through mountains.
Dad did you fit through that hole in the mountain?

After our walk we noticed many motor boats arriving at the island and people setting fire to huge bonfires. We realised it was mid summer and everyone was out for a party. Not only was the restaurant open (they often close at most times of the year and days of the week), but it was packed with revellers creating a vibrant atmosphere that we had not been expecting. We had a great dinner and chatted with loads of people. Bolga was a great place to visit and very beautiful.

Looking for our next anchorage, Fi noticed that the glacier we missed on the way up was only a few miles away. After filling up with diesel, we headed round for a look before it melted.

A peaceful dock at the end of the fjord with a view of the glacier.
The view from the boat. Pictures taken in 1920 show the glacier accessible from the water. Our guide book from a few years back described it as an hours walk to the glacier. Today its more like two hours.

We set off for the glacier on our bikes before the first ferries arrived and followed the path up to the ice.

The second largest glacier in Norway.
The glacier meltwater looked inviting for a quick dip, but after toeing it, the biggest surprise was that it actually flowed more than the glacier.

Heading south from the glacier the winds pushed us between the islands until they died completely and we parked on the arctic circle for a while. After a pleasant evening motoring, sailing, motor sailing, avoiding ferries and ducking under low power lines, we dropped anchor in a quiet bay for a few hours rest.

The winds decided we should park here for a while before leaving the arctic.
Dropping anchor just before sunset or sunrise or sunlowish.

The potential winds the next day were just that, and we motored to a quiet little spot just north of Forvik. By design this spot was a breakfast distance away from Forvik.

A day full of potential wind.
Another quiet evening on anchor.

The next morning we took the brave step of travelling the 5 miles south to Forvik, before coffee.

We had visited Forvik on the way north. There is one excellent reason to re-visit Forvik and its not to sniff the daisys.
This is why you come to Forvik, for the locally roasted coffee and locally made cake.

We discovered they are now open for dinner too as the season is in full swing. A slightly overcast day with the slight chance of thunderstorms was enough to justify staying in port and sampling the dinner menu.

15 miles south, Brønnøysund was to be Away’s home for the next 10 days. After a short trip we found, with some relief, there were plenty of vacant spots in the harbour. Reversing into a berth in a solid crosswind was worthy of some adventure scars on the hull, but nobody died.

Away parked up, nose sticking out per usual to catch unwary motorboats.
Fi is off for new adventures.
But not before a suitable ‘I’m leaving my husband behind to look after the dog on his birthday’ dinner.
I’m not leaving while that nice lady who feeds me is in that terminal building!

Next time its Fi’s racy adventures and too much sniffing around Brønnøysund.

Adding Colour – The Anchorage

After a month of atmospheric grey days, Norway delivered colour. It was as if a light switch had been flicked on.

We decided to leave Tromsø and motor south. With 24 hour daylight and not much hope of wind we decided not to stop for the night and kept travelling preferring to have longer to relax at our destination.

We managed to spot this passing ship in the middle of the night

The next morning we arrived at a small harbour which promised rock paintings and walking. The docks in the harbour were too small for Away, so our second option was a fjord another hour further on.

We had enjoyed a month of grey freezing conditions and now it looked like there were going to be several days of sunny (even double digit max temperatures!) windless weather so we decided it was worth risking an anchorage surrounded by mountains that can deliver sudden katabatic winds.

When we motored into the bay it looked fantastic and it kept getting better, and better:

View into the anchorage…yep new colours: blue and green!
After we anchor we can hear cascading water and head ashore to find a meltwater stream nearby.
We settle in beside the stream and enjoy the sun.
The wind dies completely and the reflections are magic.
Its quiet in the anchorage at night.
There are some summer houses at the entrance to the bay, but otherwise its only moose, fish and birds living here.
Next day we head to shore for more of an explore.
Mustering our inner norsepersons we enjoy an exhilarating dip. There is a top layer of cold fresh water which is attention grabbing, but the deeper water is just gently numbing.
Granite walls rise 700m above the anchorage.
And reflect
Mussels are abundant in the shallows and make a tasty dinner.
That evening two local moose stroll by. Bernie got a sniff of them from the boat and gave them a good woofing. They did not return.
Anchored amongst mountains.
We went for a walk further up the stream. No tracks here except those left by the local wildlife. There is no happier dog.
View from 500m above the anchorage
If the anchorage is so good maybe we can catch a fish. 20 minutes dragging a lure behind the dinghy and this guy joined us for lunch.
Does anyone know if the reflection of a chemtrail is dangerous too? We were lucky as this one just missed us.
The wind suddenly gusted to 25 knts on our last night to remind us its not always calm here. Shortly afterwards long periods of 0 knts returned.
Its even out of the sun at night making sleeping a little easier.
Sadly it came time to leave. An eagle crossed our path reflecting in the water as we motored out. What an amazing experience.

Our experience of this anchorage ticked many boxes: quiet, scenic, good walking, dog friendly, swimming, wildlife, fishing and foraging. It would have been easy to spend a month here, but we knew the experience would be quite different as the winds returned. It was noted in the guide book that when the clouds came down over the grey granite walls some cruisers had described the experience as being in a grey tupperware container with the lid on.

Travel experiences are based on such a small sliver of time. Other people in this same anchorage could well experience the katabatic winds we were warned of, or perhaps, it is indeed like a tupperware container. But for us, we can imagine no more a perfect moment in time than this place when we were here. Its always like this on this adventure, people warn us about places, and we go and have a great time, or we have a terrible time at place that others have really enjoyed. Travel is all about context and we were lucky enough to have this absolutely perfect couple of days.

A holiday in the sun

We arrived in Tromsø on the Sunday after our pretty exciting trip in (see the last blog for whirlpool fun), and parked up next to the sauna. We had burgers at the local burger joint which is done up (to my delight) in a Nintendo 64 Mario Bros theme.

A view of the local church rom the marina. It catches the light in so many different ways.
Letsa go!
Green pipes and everything! My brother asked me if I ate a mushroom and grew any taller? I said no, that I’d eaten a burger and grown wider.

The next day was Monday, so the shops were open and we explored town a little bit. We also packed our bags! We’re going on a little holiday! We are hoping for sunshine!

This was the Gestapo headquarters. There is a memorial outside to those who died under their violence.

Sometimes its nice to have a little break from sailboat life, and so we had booked the Hurtigruten from Tromsø to Honningsvåg, which is a little further north on the island of Magerøya. Magerøya is connected to the mainland, and to the north of the island is Nordkapp, or North Cape, the northernmost point of Europe accessible by car.

Boarding time came (17:30), and we hopped on the boat with Bernie, and settled into our cabin. The trip was overnight, and the boat was excellent. Breakfast and lunch buffet, and dinner at your leisure at one of their establishments on board. They also have hot tubs, and a sauna so we enjoyed the hot tub on the back of the boat after dinner and watched as the snow capped mountains went past, and enjoyed not being responsible for the trip.

Bernie was pretty pumped! Until he remembered he gets stuck in the room on ferries.
This was about the moment he realised that this was a ferry. He hid under the bed.
Can you see Away there in the middle?
Honestly, I didn’t think they’d go under this bridge. But they do, with a few metres clearance on either side and on the top.
You might remember we witnessed 2 Hurtigrutens passing each other and beeping their horns when we were sailing further south. Yes they do this every time they pass another one, and announce it on the loudspeaker.
Yeah spa!

The next morning we arrive in Honningsvåg at about 11am, drop our bags at the hotel and explore town. Honningsvåg is a nice town, fishing as usual is one of the main industries and has been for a long time. The North Cape is about a 35 minute drive, so we source a car for the following day.

Quite a pretty town with the BEST bakery and food we’ve had in Norway.
Norwegian jumper out for my Norwegian holiday!

After a bit of a chill out in our hotel once we got the room keys, we ventured to the restaurant downstairs and enjoyed one of the best meals we’ve had in Norway. I had the cod, and Adrian had reindeer cutlets.

The following day we had a couple of hours before we were picking up our car for our road adventure, so we took the opportunity for a hike up into the hills behind the town. There is a large lake and this is where the drinking water is sourced.

Beautiful views from the hills behind town.
Looking back towards town from the hills, we saw this Hurtigruten expedition boat come into port. It will be going to Svalbard.

Around lunchtime we pick up our car, throw Bernie in the back and we were off to North Cape, arriving in time for lunch and to take Bernie up to the North Cape monument – the most northerly part of mainland Europe that you can reach by car. We can’t believe we’ve managed to take him from Sydney, to Paris, through the Netherlands, Germany, Denmark, Sweden, the Aland Islands, around to Norway and then all the way to North Cape. And backwards and forwards to the UK in between.

Can you see the reindeer? The white spot in the middle. Don’t worry, we see a lot more!
Bernie’s first look out to see from the top of mainland Europe.
The North Cape monument.
Bernie and I have come a long way from our first meeting in Dural, NSW Australia almost 10 years ago!

We also take the opportunity to quickly visit a couple of the other towns on the island, before dropping the car back, and heading out for another meal.

Yup more reindeer. These ones are mowing the local football pitch.
These ones are mowing the verge.

This far north, the Sami people herd reindeer (amongst other things). They live across northern Europe including Sweden, Finland, Russia as well as Norway. They are different to the Scandinavian’s who primarily inhabited the southern parts of this area until they realised the north was rich in fishing (and now oil and gas resources). They speak a different dialect and rely on the land, fishing and animal herding to live.

No trees this far north.
Dog walking country.

The next morning, at some horrible time of the morning, we were back on the Hurtigruten, and back in our same cabin heading south towards Tromsø. We arrive in Tromsø at midnight, pack up our gear and the dog and we are back on Away. We don’t necessarily feel rested after our little trip, but we had a great time and we enjoyed the break from being the skippers.

The boat stopped in Hammerfest and we look at this little ball that somehow managed to contribute to measuring the size of the globe. Like the globe we live on. There was a lot of maths involved.
The sun is still trying to set. Give it another 6-8 weeks or so.

Don’t worry. In our next blog we do actually see the sun and top up the vitamin D levels.

Water falls in different forms. A lot…

After Ro left, water fell from the sky, in all its different forms… A lot. We stayed in Henningsvær for a while, emerging from the boat to get groceries.

The rain stopped for a while, the wind dropped…
and then we discovered mountains.
and colour.

One day, it was going to be sunny in the afternoon with no wind, and the next was rainy with good sailing wind. We chose sun, and motored east to Svolvær, the main town in Lofoten, planning to wait out the weather and see the town. It is an old fishing town, and the fish are definitely still playing a part in the economy.

Ooo sun shiny day! No wind, but we have the metal sail.
Flat seas, bimini up and just chugging along.

Turns out this was an excellent decision, as the orcas came out to play just as we were turning into the harbour.

There were about 8-10 orcas at the entrance to the harbour.
Here you can see an orca, and also the statue of the Fishermans Wife, looking out to sea.

The next few days were going to be very gusty and unpredictable, so we planned to stay in port. Good plan, as we got snowed on a lot. We did brave the weather and decide to go out for a walk around town to explore, and smell the money (read “drying in the rain” cod – and cod heads). It was really quite an unbelievable aroma.

The fish drying racks as you come into port. Yes you can smell them, although we’re used to it now.
Qunitessential.
Art.
I guess this boat hasn’t moved in a while given the state of the lines.
Solid foundations.
This is where the aroma became a little more pungent.
Cod heads. They are ground up into a nutritious powder. Very very pungent. There was breath holding.

We went to see the Lofoten War Memorial Museum which is purported to have the most extensive collection of uniforms and small artefacts from World War 2. It did not disappoint and you would need hours to read about every artefact they had. We also see the old town on the island opposite the main part of town, and walk out to the Fisherman’s Wife statue, through the fish – whilst holding our breath.

We managed to get out to the point to see the statue without asphyxiating ourselves.
This is the governors house which is now a hotel, but you have to book the entire place – you can’t just book a room, so perhaps it is more like an Airbnb?
The war museum was packed with artefacts and was so interesting.
It has one of the biggest collections of uniforms.

Eventually, we were tired of big city life, and the endless commercial tours going to Trollfjord had inspired us to do our own Trollfjord and bird watching safari. So off we popped on Away, motoring again because the wind was either forecast to blow a gale or be dead calm. We motored again to the beautiful Trollfjord, then up to a nice little anchorage for the evening.

The sky threw down snow the night before we were due to leave, and the dock was still icy in the morning.
Heading out into the grey EARLY morning, this lady waved goodbye to us.
Fresh pow.
Can you see the entrance to Trollfjord? Neither could we. Happy for our charts.
Its very narrow! How the cruise ships get in here and then turn around is anyone’s guess!
Beautiful fjord, but after a quick motor through we are off to our anchorage for the evening.
Anchored up on Brotøy.
Grey with a little colour.
We’d stayed up until 2am watching the snow, and so a 5am start meant that naps were required before anyone was ready to go exploring. Bernie takes the opportunity to steal Adrian’s spot so Adrian has to sleep in the guest berth.

We explore the anchorage by dinghy, and Bernie relishes his land time by eating poo and anything else he can find on this beautiful white beach. You’d honestly think we were in the Bahamas or somewhere else I haven’t been yet with the colour of the sand and the water, even in the grey. One look at our outfits though and you’d remember it was less than 5 degrees and yes that is a sleet shower coming, or rain, or snow. Something cold.

He LOVES the dinghy and wiggles and cries because he’s so pumped to get to land.
Pretty beaches here. Bernie takes the opportunity to find the leftovers of campers stomachs for a meal.
Turquoise even in the grey!
Away at home.

We did see a moose footprint. Bernie enjoyed a swim, of course… Really it was because he got lost and found himself on the other side of a stream to us, and decided that was the best way to get across, rather than take the longer route around via land. He was soaked, and the weather was coming, so back to the boat for a warm shower, for all of us.

Moose? Reindeer? Elk? Something big.
Bernie solves his own problems. But also creates more in the process. Dog bath time at the boat.

Another anchorage was calling. We needed some anchorages after all the big city life and this one did not disappoint. We anchored, and the wind blowing off the small hill on the windward side of the anchorage decided that it would turn the wind around to the opposite direction to what we were expecting when we anchored so we spent a relaxed evening about 20m away from the shoreline. Fortunately it wasn’t forecast to be more than about 6 knots all night so we didn’t worry. Too much.

The sun came out for a cameo so we sat at the bow and had a beer and soaked in the vitamin D!
Sheltered anchorage with NO high mountains creating katabatic winds… Bliss.
It was a bit wriggly to get into the anchorage.

And wouldn’t you know it! We’re in the arctic! So naturally another gale is forecast and being in our little anchorage tucked up against some rocks, where the wind does the opposite to the forecast didn’t seem like a very safe plan, so we decided to find a nice harbour in a fjord on the island of Senja which promised excellent hiking and views. Unfortunately, we never found the harbour, instead we had one great moment of sailing, and then the wind died and we wobbled around in the washing machine swell before deciding another, closer harbour might be okay for the gale that was coming. It cut about 2 hours off the washing machine cycle so we were happy with our decision.

Coming in things were pretty calm with the occasional gust, but that was all about to change.

We get blown onto the dock in Gryllefjorden, put out all the fenders, because it wasn’t the most gentle docking we’d ever done and 5 minutes after docking we were seeing 25 knots directly on the starboard side pinning us against the dock. Hmmm, the forecast was supposed to be 15 knots from the south, outside the fjord we had no knots from no where, and inside the fjord we had 25 knots from the east. Arctic Norway keeps us guessing. The wind was supposed to turn around to gale force from the west, and after a few hours, yes the forecasted winds filled right in, and we enjoyed being rocked to sleep with 30 knots from the port side, gusting to 40. At least we were being blown off the dock.

The boat is leaning over in the marina because the wind is right on the beam.
Yes, its summer.
This sign is designed to cheer you up. It says: “Hug, Caring, Good summer, Give a smile, Love, Everything will be fine, Good thoughts, You are good enough, Happy in the dark, Gryllefjord, Warm thoughts.”
We have dinner at the local restaurant. This is a whale steak which is quite delicious.
The restaurant also sold fresh seagull eggs. I had to try one.
Boil for 14 minutes, and unsurprisingly it tasted like egg. Delicious with some bacon!
A moment of calm, and some blue.

After a good night of not sleeping, we decided to stay here in this old fishing village for a couple of days and have a look around, waiting for another weather window to head north towards Tromsø. One was coming, but not before Gryllefjorden, that we are now dubbing “the Katabatic Town” gave us one last gift of unscheduled gale force winds from the east again (it was coming from the south, but the mountains mean it shoots down the fjord from the east). We both stay up until 4AM feeling the boat crash into the dock. Literally crash because by this time our fenders had basically given up. Running on no sleep, not helped by the midnight sun through grey clouds, we leave nice and early, hoping for fairer pastures further north.

Rugged north coast of Senja.
Arriving at our destination, more grey but I can see some blue in the water and sky.

Our next stop is full of white beaches, and apparently no wind. So we motor and sailed a little to Sommarøy. Sommarøy is gorgeous old fishing village, even when the weather only has peeks of sunshine.

Parked up in Sommarøy on a tiny wharf made for little fishing runabouts.
I discover the sun! At midnight.

Bernie had a great run on the beach, but another gale is coming, and we want to get to Tromsø, because we have booked ourselves a little holiday.

Getting wet and sandy and chasing sticks. Heaven for this guy.
Little pink shells. White beach, turquoise water.

Onwards to Tromsø and we have a shredding upwind sail, manually helming because it was super fun until our hands went numb. We get stalked by the coastguard for a while who sneakily turned off their AIS for some reason. They were parked in port, with AIS on, and as we passed they turned it off, and headed out towards us. I assume they eventually rang their friends who told them we were not illegal, and to please leave us alone, because it wasn’t long before they changed course away from us to go and stalk other unwary sailors.

This guy hitched a ride with us as we left Sommarøy.

Soon, as it is inevitably true, the wind started being weird, so we packed up the sails for the day to motor the last couple of hours to Tromsø. As we were about an hour out of Tromsø, we we navigating through a tight section of water, and observing the sea state. It was weird. Adrian suddenly realised – thats a whirlpool, and we were heading straight for it. It should be mentioned we had been patting ourselves on the back about 5 minutes earlier for getting the time right for the current as it was pushing us along nicely, but as soon as we saw the state of this straight, we realised the current had other ideas. We went from 8 knots, to 2, in the space of about 5 minutes. The current was absolutely gushing through the straight. Power up on the engine, we fought the 6 knot current for about 30 minutes until finally getting back out into more open water. The tanker behind us called us on the radio wondering what we were doing, telling us they were going to pass us on port, but by the time we had finished our little radio conversation with them, we were suddenly doing 7 knots again, and they had gone from 12 to 6, so we won the race. Eventually they did pass us, but not until we were turning into Tromsø. I guess they didn’t read about the currents there either.

Very strong current.

Once through that, we dock in our first Y berth dock of the year, kind of successfully (nothing broke and no one was hurt), and we were in Tromsø. This is as far north as we have ever been, and as far north as Away will go (for the foreseeable future).

Parked up. Nose sticking out as usual. Grey.
We are the blue dot. There is not much north of us now.

Next time we have plans for a little break away from Away and getting someone else to drive for a few days.

The Most Famous Australian Cruisers in Norway!

We blogged about our trip from Bodø out the Lofoton Islands but we neglected so say that we are now the most famous Australian cruisers in Norway!

We picked up Ro in Bodø and sailed off the coast to a tiny island that was home to a few summer houses. When we arrived Ro and Adrian braved the inclement conditions and headed ashore for an explore. We headed over boggy ground along a sort of path that led uncomfortably through the ‘garden’ of the first house we came to. Its not really summer enough for summer houses in this part of the world, so we were surprised when a jovial woman in a Norwegian jumper appeared from the house and started speaking Norwegian to us.

Perfect day for a walk.

We exchanged the usual ‘we don’t speak Norwegian’ and ‘I only speak English a little’. We explained we were Australians from the boat anchored in the bay and not too sure if we were on the correct track. She said she knew we had come from Australia and picked the boat up in France and sailed to Norway as she had read about us in the paper (note she still assumed we spoke Norwegian). She had been expecting a beautiful woman and neurotic spaniel, so we explained that Ro was visiting from Australia and Fi and Bernie had stayed on the boat. It seems that the news article written about us in Risør has been published more widely than we thought. We are now recognised in even in the remotest corners of Norway.

In Norway, every town has a claim to fame: ‘the gateway to the arctic’, ‘the western most full time inhabited town’, ‘the southern most partially inhabited town in the north of the southern most district in arctic Norway’. To fit in we have, with some justification, decided that we are ‘The most famous Australians cruising Norway’.

Famous.
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