Sailing & Other Adventures

Category: South coast England

Travelling on the south coast of England

The Day We Became ‘Cleatist’

A look at the weather showed it would be very quick trip back to UK or perhaps an opportunity to enjoy some harbour time. We decided on the latter.

Grey coloured wind is BAD.

St Peters Port has an inner harbour with a cill that keeps some water in the harbour at low tide. Once the outside water level is below the cill at low tide, any surge in the outer harbour is kept out. But after about half tide the surge comes through the inner harbour, gently swaying vessels to and fro.

Anticipating a bit of surge, we added some extra dock lines and had just settled down with a cup of tea when there was a metal on metal clunk outside. Hmmm. It took just a moment to notice one of the bow dock lines hanging loose and the remains of the cleat on the dock.

That used to be a dock cleat.

No matter there were a few more cleats we could use. The boat was now surging quite violently and the snatch loads on the cleats were becoming significant. Another boat further down the dock broke a stern line and another ripped a cleat out off its deck. Someone else injured themselves on their boat in the violent surge and was off to hospital.

To reduce the snatch loads we decided to put some longer lines with more stretch across the dock to some unused cleats on the far side of the dock. I was just explaining to another owner how we had broken a cleat when another one parted company with the dock, shot past our legs and smashed into the hull with a bullet like impact. ‘Just like that’ I explained.

The situation was becoming a little more serious as we were running out of cleats to hold the bow which was now enjoying some gusts into the forties and snatch loads from the surging. We were upwind of a number of more delicate fibreglass boats that were going to make that horrible crunching sound if we blew into them.

I noticed $2M worth of Leopard catamaran parked at the end of the fairway. Side on it was an unmissable target. If our bow came loose I imagined the force of the wind would break the stern lines in an instant and Away would head straight for the shiny white fibreglass and happily embed its solid aluminium bowsprit into the catamarans exposed hull. Then what? Would the wind twist Away and lever off a large section of gleaming white hull? I remembered those pictures from the blitz with peoples lounge rooms exposed to public view when a bomb ripped the front off a house. Would there be neatly folded PJs and a tidy row of sailing guides ordered by region and size, or a pile of long overdue washing and dishevelled pile of Multihull magazines? Perhaps the chain plates would be weakened by the impact enough for the rig to collapse into the car park surprising the retired couple enjoying their cheese and pickle sandwiches and flask of tea.

More cleats needed and quick. We set about finding additional under utilised cleats around the dock and moving them onto our dock. The ever present risk of being maimed by a low flying cleat made it stressful work.

We slowly added more and more mooring lines (thank goodness we bought more when we wintered in Scotland) and ran them through the cleats on our side, then across the dock over to the further side cleats for extra extra holding.

I was about to remove more cleats when an off duty harbour master came to suggest we didn’t cross the dock with our lines creating a tripping hazard. I decided not to shout at him immediately and instead explained that we were happy to remove the offending lines if he was happy to take responsibility for us turning the other boats into a splintering mess of crushed fiberglass. He asked why we were the only boat breaking cleats. Newtons second law was a long faded memory from high school physics, so I summarised that little wee boats equal little wee force on the cleats, big f**k off cruising boat equals big f**k off forces on the cleats. He must have been happy with the answer because he stopped asking questions and phoned the harbour team to bring more cleats.

Meanwhile, we had broken another cleat, and Fi was standing there ropes and a threatening cleat in her hands trying to stop it from scratching up her nicely patched hull wrapping.

About three hours after the surge started the harbour team turned up with extra cleats after the boss man had gone up there and directed. Fi had been up there twice already asking for more cleats, explaining that we were slowing shearing through their current ones. This didn’t seem to register with them, and we can only put it down to Fi being as cool as a cucumber, or the “salty proper sailing dudes” thinking she was overreacting.

We replaced the four broken ones, added numerous more and secured the now fourteen dock lines to multiple cleats each to reduce the loads on a single cleat.

Secure at last? Every dock line we had and the tow rope. Four broken cleats.

Six hours later, the tide had dropped and the cill was doing its work, stopping the massive surge. Dinner, and a sleep.

The next day we took a closer look at the dock and what had failed. The first cleats had sheared off under the snatch loads. A retired Rolls Royce engineer on the dock told us they were cast aluminium with significant cavities that were destined to fail under load. Cheap and nasty were his words.

The dock also used a rail system for the cleats that had allowed us to easily move the cleats from other parts of the dock. In some cases one end of the cleat had ripped out of the dock and then twisted and snapped the other end off. In other cases, as we surged backwards and forwards, the cleats simply moved on the rails, backwards and forwards in time with us. Not particularly secure.

Remains of a cleat. The left end ripped out of the slot and then the cleat twisted and tore the other end off. Looks like a good solid system for row boats.

Compare these to more solid cleats that we see on most docks in this region.

Sometimes it seems like cruising is a journey of dispelling assumptions (‘people offering to take lines on the dock know how to tie off a line’, ‘mooring buoys are safe to moor on’). We used to assume cleats were strong enough to tie on to. Not now. We have officially become ‘cleatist’.

Before the next blow is due, we decided to grab another weather window for our next destination.

Rolling over the Channel Islands

Last time we left Salcombe extraordinarily early in the morning and headed south.

Is it like this every morning?

It was Fi’s seventh channel crossing so we had some idea what to expect. This time it would be light winds to start and stronger winds and squalls with waves against tide later… something to look forward to. Plus it is the busiest shipping channel in the world, so Fi warmed up her “radio voice” in preparation for calling up the ships to ensure they were aware of our presence.

The tankers and cargo ships all exited the traffic separation area and took turns trying to hit us.
If you look in the right direction you can pretend they aren’t there.

The ride into Guernsey got quite squally and bumpy as predicted. We were surprised by the number of tuna in the channel, several times seeing groups of them jumping out of the water and chasing fish.

We had just put the sails down and were motoring towards port when this lined us up for some 30 knot winds and hail. Welcome to Guernsey! It had been 2 knots of wind prior to this hitting us.
Hmm…stay-inside weather
The beautiful St Peters Port.

Settled weather encouraged us to head to the nearby island of Sark. This was a momentous occasion as it completed our circumnavigation of… somewhere. We had last been to Sark after picking up the boat although we weren’t allowed ashore as it was covid times.

The anchorage at Sark. Less fog than last time we were here.
A taller ship parked nearby.
We go ashore on Sark. Its not the flattest island
Exploring the windy roads of Sark.
Some harbours even had tunnels to access them through the steep cliffs

How long can one handle a rolling house. 2 days, 3 days? Sark was such an interesting place to visit. There are no cars, historic places, natural beauty, and a rolly anchorage. So after a couple of nights, we realised that the boat was feeling flatter than the land, so we’d better leave for a less rolly anchorage.

Bye bye Sark. We decide to move to the south coast of Guernsey.
All the anchorages here have good sunsets

Around to the south side of Guernsey, we find a beautiful anchorage with a white sand beach. Oh, but its just as rolly. Fortunately, as the tide drops, the beach becomes a vast expanse of still, hard, flat – did I mention still – land. We enjoyed a few days on the beach as a respite to the rolly boat.

We find our own beach. At least at low tide. It completely disappears at high tide, sometimes even before the BBQ has finished cooking!
Big ears is a little hard of hearing these days, so doesn’t get off lead time as much as he used to. He was very happy to have multiple days off lead on his own beach.

We’d read that during World War 2, Guernsey was occupied by the Nazis, which neither of us actually knew. Close by to this anchorage was the “Occupation Museum” detailing what life was like during this time, so for a nice day off the rolly boat we headed up there for a good walk, and a look at all the artefacts found on the island after the occupation ended. The allies landed in St Peter Port where we would later moor Away.

Completely sick of the rolling, we elected to motor around the corner and back to bustling St Peter Port for some more touring of historic sites.

Returning to St Peter Port we find some old guns on a hill overlooking the port. This is the Clarence Battery built in 1779. Originally all the gun emplacements were set to point at France, but when the Nazi’s were occupying they built on top and extended it to have guns also pointing north, towards any raiding parties from England.
And others inside the hill. An second world war fuel bunker was now a museum of military paraphernalia. There was a lot left behind when the Germans left at the end of the war.

We learnt about the German occupation of the Channel Islands during WW2 at the several museums housing war artifacts. The Germans heavily fortified the islands. Rather than retake them by force, the allies negotiated their surrender at the end of the war, almost a year after the D day landings a few miles away. Many relics remained on the islands and have found their way into the museums.

Next time we destroy the dock in St Peters Port and explain Newtonian physics to a nice yet cranky man in a mild gale.

Battleships to Salcombe, via the pub

Last time we had been engine testing and exploring some of the Cornish coast. The time had come to use the remainder of the season to head south to France. First we wanted to visit the Channel Islands. We had ‘visited’ Sark, one of the Channel Islands, during Covid, but had not been able to go ashore or visit any of the other islands.

Bye bye Penryn and friends at Volvo

Tides are everything in this area and we could only leave Penryn around high tide (given that Away sits in the mud here until the high water comes in) which wasn’t the best time to head along the coast as the current would be pushing against us. Therefore, it seemed like an ideal opportunity to visit the often recommended Pandora Inn for dinner before catching the tide along the coast the next morning.

Bernie was so popular at the pub, while Adrian was ordering at the bar, a fellow asked Fi if he could breed with him. After a pause, Fi realised he was wanting puppies with his own springer spaniel, who incidentally was a boy. So after Fi explained that despite his feminine looks, he’s a boy as well, but has had the chop chop, we all had a laugh about spaniel antics, and he was on his way, perhaps to harass other pretty springer owners.

Cornwall is full of pretty boats.

The next day, sailing along the coast, we passed Plymouth which has a big naval presence and a live firing range just offshore. A German warship announced it was about to start firing as we passed but we didn’t see any explosions.

Lots of big grey boats in this area using their serious voices on the radio. This is the HMS St Albans.

It had been suggested that ‘If you want to visit Plymouth, go the the River Yealm and take a taxi’. Indeed the Yealm was another delightfully protected river along this stretch of coast. Strong tidal currents and range meant mooring buoys and mid stream pontoons are the normal fare. There was even a sand bar across the river entrance to remind us of home. The channel is so hidden in the plethora of moored boats, we were motoring slowly along following the “water” behind a row boat who was looking quizzically at us as we edged closer and closer to the shallows. Realising, Fi pointed out the port marker, and a quick turn, and a laugh and head shake from the rower, Away was back on the correct track. I guess they see that a lot here.

Away tied up to the visitors pontoon. We missed the note about which way to point.

We take the dinghy over to the harbour office pontoon, for our little wander through town and to give Bernie a much needed walk. Before we knew it we were at the first pub the “Dolphin Inn” eating yet another pub meal with a pint.

Low tide is not the time to go fishing.

Not content that we had properly “earned” our pub meal and pint, we walked the long way around, to yet another pub, called “The Swan Inn” where we felt perhaps we could earn another pint.

Hmm, we walked across there only ten minutes ago.

And then finally, we felt we better earn that pint and walk to the third pub the “Ship Inn” for the final pint of the day before we then earned that pint, walking the long way back around because by this time the tide had come in and we were cut off – from walking. Not beer.

They even put cocktail umbrellas in our pints at this pub…

Bernie found a woodland area that was looked after by locals and tried to make us chase squirrels. We wandered through the streets. Many of the cottages had been replaced with modern glass boxes that would look at home in Sydney’s harbour suburbs. Like many of the Cornish seaside villages we’d visited, so many properties are now holidays homes or holiday lets. It seemed like every second property had a key box outside.

Feeling a little more confident as to where the channel is in the River Yealm, and also about how the tide flows, we left at a reasonable time in the morning after a couple of days enjoying the serenity. The Yealm is so packed with moored boats, and the tide runs so fast, they have some tips and tricks in their cruising guide as to how to avoid collisions.

Next stop along the coast was Salcombe. From Salcombe it would be a doable day hop across the channel to the Channel Islands.

We sailed the 4 or so hours over to Salcombe, and came through the tight channel that denotes the “deep” water to the west of yet another giant sandbar that crosses the harbour entrance, and were promptly met with the harbour master who just said “how can we help you?” – whilst this greeting was not what we expected, we simply said we needed water and a mooring place, and were helpfully guided to both.

Pina Colada in the sun in Salcombe. Almost like we had made it to the Mediterranean after all
Houses in Salcombe are coloured his/hers for simplicity.

Salcombe is a very pretty place, and after a few days, which included taking the bus to the vets for Bernie’s annual shots, we were looking at a good weather window to make the channel crossing.

We all got some R & R before the big crossing
We were up well before sunrise to make sure we used all the daylight for the trip across the Channel.

Next time we finally get to visit the Channel Islands!

A better kind of normal

If you managed to read to the end of the previous blog, you would have noted that the kind Volvo people told us not to start our engine, and that they would come and tow us from the Helford River where we were anchored just south from Falmouth. Something was dreadfully wrong with our engine again.

We spent another couple of days on anchor in Helford, enjoying the area, waiting for our lift.

On the Monday (22nd July) they came, and we tried out our still in original packaging tow line, lifted anchor and were towed from Helford up to Penryn, which is up the river from Falmouth. It was a strange feeling. Obviously to all observing, we were being towed, to be honest it was a little embarrassing, but I guess it happens.

The fellows from FYB Marine here to help us.
Almost there.
And here in our berth. This is low tide, we came in at high tide when there was actual water.

Towed up to Penryn, we settled into our berth which I found out later is the “very broken boat” berth. We discussed the ins and outs of what would happen, and agreed that getting a whole new engine was the best way to go. We had to get a new gearbox anyway as Volvo had recalled ours, and clearly our engine was pretty upset given the oil level was now about 20cm above max and looking like a lovely mixture of coolant, oil and seawater – and we hadn’t even switched it on. For peace of mind, new engine.

Begin the cardboarding of the interal structures in Away for protection, discussing how to get the old one out, ordering of new lifts and things for the yard, discussions about aluminium boats and insulating electricity, discussions with Garcia, and eventually, the fateful day where we leave the yard and have some time in a hotel in town. Feeling confident, its best we leave the experts to do what they do. I know I would be bothering them asking a million questions, so I’m happy to let them get on with it.

Town walkings.
We took a trip one day down to Porthleven which was beautiful.
And suffers from the same tides.
We spot our shining new engine on the test bed.
And go for a walk with Falmouth uncovered for an evening of ghost stories.
From the local pub we can see Away in the mud.
We decided to try our hand at some art while we waited for the new engine to be installed.
And we connect with Adrian’s cousin!

A few days later, we are invited back to Away, happily humming with the sound of her new Volvo Penta D275. Complete with an extra temperature sensor.

Off we go to commission the new engine which involves monitoring speed and revs, getting it up to the highest revs and checking temperatures and for leaks etc.

Going back to our berth from trying out the engine all day was a gorgeous and relaxing afternoon.

All seems well. We do some more sea trials and the optimism starts to creep in again. We are all feeling a lot more comfortable, the engine sounds brilliant and the new gearbox is a lot quieter.

So we went sailing on someone elses boat… Actually we were invited to go out racing for Falmouth Week in the Champagne Race. We came third in that, and our friends came second overall for the week. It was a fun day in the sun!

Spinnaker flying!
Here we are with the captain. We were being serious racers I promise.
The previous 2 days racing for the team had been a bit sporty, but happily when we went, it was perfect.

As our confidence grows, we take a trip over to Fowey in Away (pronounced “Foy“) and enjoy the local sights and sounds.

Pretty place, and some great summer weather!
We scoped this boat coming in…
Guess they are our new neighbours.

And as I type this, we are finalising the collection of various packages, planning a good clean of Away, and looking at weather windows to finally get on and do what we do.

We want to find out what happened to the old engine. No one seems to know. Not the 5 engineers we have spoken to, not Volvo, not us. There are many theories being banded about, but none of them quite fit. What we do know is we are very happy with this better kind of normal we find ourselves in. The engine does sound overall better.

© 2024 Fi & Adrian

Theme by Anders NorenUp ↑