We had enjoyed some time in the fjords, but now we needed to push north to Bodø where we were meeting our new crew member.
We left Geiranger and were soon scooting north inside the skerries trying our best to dodge the snow and sleet showers.
Our favourite Norwegian website that showed detailed information about expected wave heights, promised more boisterous conditions between the skerries and a little cross wave excitement before getting into our next harbour. We weren’t disappointed, and in increasingly uncomfortable wave conditions we altered course and scurried in behind some skerries for protection. There was no protection for the last short open water dash to the harbour at Bud, but the waves were more comfortable all being from one direction.
We left Bud and wriggled through some skerries before heading out to open water and sailing up the coast passing the active port of Kristiansund and arriving at our quiet island anchorage.
The next day we motor sailed north until the wind filled in. A luxury cruise boat heading for the Russian border passed by, and then all of a sudden a ferry popped out of a nearby harbour, the captain set a collision course with us and then went below for a nice cup of tea.
We passed a coast guard vessel loitering in a bay reminiscent of the highway patrol cars we see in Australia beside the road waiting for speeding motorists. We were doing 8 knots but hadn’t seen any speed restrictions so we were surprised when it pulled out and followed us. It eventually caught and passed us and gave us a friendly wave.
A short distance ahead the Coast Guard vessel stopped, turned side on and Fi joked that they were going to board us. Sure enough, out came the RIB and a friendly young man requested to board us. As well as giving Bernie a scratch he had also asked to look at our passports. He noted he was out of his depth as he had never seen an Australian passport or temporary residency card before, but Bernie was chuffed to have a visitor mid passage and took the opportunity to do a massive poo and 2 wee wees at the bow.
It took a few phone calls to local authorities until we found the right person to confirm our legal status in Norway.
We found a sheltered little harbour called Revsnes which seemed ideal to sit out some stronger winds. The presence of a selection of large cruising boats showed it was a popular wintering location for cruisers. The next day we rested, chatted to our neighbouring Amel Super Maramu, and sniffed around the dock for bits of crab and fresh seagull poop.
The wind gods were on our side again and we had an easy sail north to the tiny harbour of Vingsand. About 9pm we were surprised to see another yacht entering the harbour which, apart from the mad Australians, was home to a small fleet of fishing and pleasure craft. Even more surprising we recognised the yacht as one that had arrived in Geiranger as we were leaving. A little snooping uncovered it was a Polish yacht named ‘Freyr’ that offered passages onboard.
When we left the next morning we noted Freyr were half an hour behind us, so it was clearly a race. Today we squeezed out from the wave protection of the skerries and into oceans swells. It was a little unnerving at first as the swells pilled up on the shelving sea bed near the skerries, and then equally delightful as Away stretched out on a long reach up the coast with constant wind speed and direction for a change.
Approaching Rørvik the channel narrowed and the shipping obeyed the first law of maritime engagement: a tanker approached from behind, a cargo vessel altered course to collide with us, and a tug decided to overtake all three vessels as a large fishing boat came the other way.
Rørvik was an ideal overnight stop and the next morning we were Away. Freyr, who had arrived later in the previous evening, were a little late to the start. We headed out to sea to get a reaching angle up the coast and we soon travelling over 7 knots in a one sided contest. A navy frigate passed going in the other direction but seemed to have got the message about our passports being ok.
We were headed for the famous mountain with a hole in it: Torghatten.
The next day Freyr arrived as we booted up and headed for the famous hole.
We leave with Freyr and head north. They stop for the night at the bright lights of Brønnøysund and the hardened Away team tack north in a freshening evening breeze towards Forvik.
The next day had motoring winds and puttered north on dead calm seas passing the seven sisters.
The day ended at the little marina at Herøy.
Herøy had a flower shop on the other side of the island. The mighty Bromptons were pressed into service for a lovely ride to the most eclectic ‘flower shop’ we have ever visited. Inside little staircases led to balconies with arm chairs, or down to a grotto filled with candles passing sculptures, wall hangings, plants and ornaments.
With little wind we left Herøy and motored another 20 miles north to Tomma for the night. We later read the entry in our second cruising guide which warned of somewhat limited draft next to the floating dock. Bemused fisher folk watched in wide eyed bemusement as 17 tons of black post modern aluminium silently crossed the bay, navigated the perilously shallow water and tied up to the dock. For some reason they didn’t help us dock.
Leaving Tomma we knew that a good following wind and almost unlimited daylight meant Bodø was an achievable target for the day. But first we made a special detour to pass the stunning Arctic circle monument. Reaching the arctic circle had crept on us. It was never a goal, but it seems if you keep raising the sails and pointing north you will eventually pass this imaginary line.
The freshening wind was behind us and the daylight showing no signs of decline so we pushed on toward Bodø. Two hours from Bodø the wind jumps from 20-25 knots to 35 knots and a little reefing was required to keep things under control. We almost make it into Bodø when the wind dropped off and we motored the last hour into the dock.
At Bodø we recover from the long trip north, search for parts for the heater and keep an eye out for our new crew member.
