Tag: sailing

Winter is coming… Our journey towards Scotland.

October 6, 2022 / fiandadrian

By Fi

So we kinda need to get moving now. There is still hundreds of miles to go for us to get to a good jump off point to cross the North Sea and into Scotland and winter is coming.

So, on one sunny day with enough wind, we were off! Tacking up the Danish coast towards Helsingborg in Sweden.

Although sad to leave Copenhagen, we are exciting to get moving on to new adventures.

We made it the measly 20 miles into Helsingborg safely, although it took us twice as long as it should have as both the wind and tide were conspiring against us.

This is our track from Copenhagen to Helsingborg – tacking most of the way beating into the wind and current. We averaged 2-3 knots so it ended up being a looooong day.

Tied up in Helsingborg. There wasn’t a lot to do here as the town was shutting down for the winter but we did find a good bakery.

Helsingborg was a nice town. We wandered around for a day or so, waiting for the wind to fill in so we could continue north. We are beginning to feel a little rushed these days as the North Sea is notorious and we want to get across it asap before the real wintery weather sets in.

The day we were there, the wind stopped and the sun came out. Delightful Autumn conditions.

Bernie wanted to see too. His first attempt to jump up resulted in him falling off backwards so I picked him up and he ran around on the wall.

We spot this gorgeous Springer and Bernie says hello. She’s 9 months old and watching her owner clean.

We head north, and stop off one night in a lovely little anchorage, and then north again to Varberg, another west coast Swedish town.

Sunset at our anchorage. Its nice to see sunsets again now the seasons are turning.

In Varberg we tie up in the now empty harbour (the season is over) and have some dinner and plan a couple of days exploring. We take a look at the Varberg Fortress which is from the 17th century and is currently used as a museum and cafe, and also local residences. Its current exhibition was the Bocksten Man, a bog body found in a local bog here. He was discovered in June 1936 by a farmers son, fairly well preserved but what was particularly interesting is how well his clothes were preserved. It gave researchers an accurate glimpse into what middle class apparel looked like at that time – believed to be around the 1400s.

Varberg was a pretty industrial town harbour.

The fort area was old, large and impressive. We take Bernie for walks.

The walls are so thick! We have a salad and a piece of carrot cake in the museum cafe.

The town is lovely and we have a couple of meals out. This church (below) has a tendency to ring its bells for about 30 minutes every few hours and there is a plethora of hotted up 90s Volvos driving around town blaring out their music. This doesn’t seem to be limited to the younger generation either, an old mate was driving his Volvo around blaring out Nat King Cole at one point. Perhaps its a Varberg thing.

Onwards we go, perhaps a little tired of the bells and souped up Volvos now. We have to motor the whole way to Gothenburg as there is little wind, and any wind there is is right on our nose, plus it is raining all day and cold, so we put the throttle on, and steer using the autopilot controls from the navigation station inside. We also take this opportunity to have a hot shower while underway, and turn our diesel heater on. Away really is pure luxury.

Here I am steering and navigating from inside with a great view of everything. Bernie to my right, never far away from me when we are underway.

We tie up at the marina which is on the coast, about 40 minutes from the city. Gothenburg had been recommended to us to visit, and we plan to come back as we are cognisant of our timings now and need to continue moving. We had been tied up for an hour or so, and had a visit from some locals who invited us for nibbles and drinks at their house overlooking the marina. We felt so privileged that they welcomed us into their beautiful home! They confessed that they too used to have a Springer Spaniel and one look at Bernie convinced them we must be good people to have visit, but only if we brought him too. He had a lovely time with them as did we and it was great to get some local knowledge of the area.

We can take Bernie on the local trams and so we take this opportunity for him to see the vet and get a tapeworm tablet for his passport records for Norway, and do some provisioning.

We find a great seafood restaurant right next to the marina and they give me all the wine.

Onwards north again one rainy morning we go, this time we want to stop off at a couple of anchorages. We mostly don’t have a solid idea of where we will anchor, rather we aim for an area, and look for good anchorages as we travel. There are literally thousands of places to stop, so we don’t worry.

There are so many pots that I get the binoculars out to spot them coming with as much notice as possible. They can be hard to see, tiny styrofoam balls or little sticks with black flags.

Spotting crab pots in the wind and cold might sound like its not much fun, but it beats working any day,

After dodging hundreds of crab pots, we stop in a nice bay just south of a town called Skärhamn, protected by a rock wall, cook some dinner and turn in for the night. We want to move on again the next day.

So more crab pot dodging for us the next morning, and we get some really good sailing in this day. The wind is strong, we are reefed and we travel nice and fast to another gorgeous anchorage just east of a town called Kungshamn. Upon arrival, we note the need for little Bernie to have some land time (we’ve been boat bound for the best part of 2 days) so we dingy in to shore and happily are able to pick up an apple, some oysters and some berries which I discovered later are European Cranberries and they taste absolutely gross. Ah – lesson learned! The oysters are pacific oysters and were totally delicious. They are a pest in these parts.

Away anchored in this very protected bay. We hid from the breezy overnight conditions here.

Love foraging for seafood. I’ve happily found an oyster and looking for more.

The oysters were great, the apple was full of pectin and so a little tasteless but good for cooking, and the berries, although they look juicy and delicious, are gross. Every day is school on Away.

Our next leg would be the very next day. The wind was forecast to be on the beam at 20 knots gusting to 28 which is ideal for Away. We leave early, dodge more crab pots, and get the sails up. Soon we are scooting along at 8-9 knots consistently. We keep up this speed for the best part of 8 hours, reaching a top speed of 10.5 knots at one stage. We are crossing the Skagerrak, an area of water on the south coast of Norway. We want to do 70 miles so going fast is key.

Bernie and I keeping watch. It was rolly and he felt safest here.

The water was rushing over the decks all day. This was the wettest day from seawater that we have had.

Whilst this wasn’t the most comfortable passage we have ever had, we were fast and could arrive before the wind got even stronger at our destination in Norway called Risør. It is our first port in Norway and did not disappoint! Upon dropping the sails, we motored in through the islands and the town opened up before us. Risør is home to heritage listed houses all painted white and it is beautiful to see. The town is surrounded by cliffs and the changing colours of the seasons.

Just opposite the town are some beautiful islands where you can tie up and swim in the summer. Its a little cold now.

The sun set colours are stunning as we dock the boat.

We tie up here on the protected side of the dock as we will need to wait out a gale or two before moving along.

Away tied up nice and safely on the north side of this solid wall, safe from the southerly gales.

From Copenhagen in the south, to Risør, our first Norwegian port.

We cannot see a window to Scotland yet. We are starting to become very concerned that in actual fact we will not make it to Scotland. We don’t want to scare ourselves on the north sea so much or risk our safety. In Risør we sit out our first winter gale, and watch the weather patterns roll over the north sea – 40 knot winds and 4m waves roll over and over the sea with only 1 days break in between, and we become increasingly more nervous. We need at least 2.5 days to cross.

Goodbye France

October 15, 2021 / fiandadrian

By Fi

We spent a few fun days in Cherbourg catching up with new friends and tidying up the boat. We were about to enact our complex plan to get to the UK to save our remaining Schengen visa days, and to get the dog into the UK – you might remember the UK’s very strict rules on dogs entering on private yachts.

Bernie staring at our lovely neighbours who just want to eat their dinner.

We packed all our things, and one very very early morning, left the boat and drove down to Caen and got through the plethora of paperwork to get on the ferry to Portsmouth. Little Bernie had to stay in the hire car, but we enjoyed a little shut eye, some food, some random quiz and some suitably calming live music on the ferry.

We got through the UK customs uneventfully, and we were off to our airbnb in the countryside. About half way there I realised that no one that we encountered in he UK gave two hoots about the dog. I wondered if we were being WAYY too straighty-one-eighty by following all the rules perfectly. Hmmm.

We had 2 weeks in the country. We walked and walked, ran some errands to the swindleries (read chandleries) and set up a few things to make life easier once we were able to get Away in too.

Our trip to the chandleries garnered this lovely encounter in Lymington.

The Quantock hills presented us with some challenging walks, fantastic pubs and a few times, a lost dog. Bernie has discovered squirrels. He’s never seen anything like them before and is absolutely obsessed. He eventually comes back. We also think he has discovered pheasants.

Well, that’s going to need a bath later.

I’m very happy to be walking the hills. My new hiking boots are cutting the mustard too.

Bernie is loving his world and fits right in.

The weather has been magic. Rainy when its okay to, and sunny when we want it to be.

Speechless. They weren’t bothered by us or Bernie at all.

We are also lucky enough to have family and friends everywhere and so we visited Langford near Bristol for a few days to catch up with friends who generously also let us stay in their gorgeous home. Bernie had a great walk on the beach on one occasion and I am living for this face.

Speaking of seeing wonderful people, we were able to catch up with my family as well who are living in London. They came all the way out to Bath to see us and we had a great lunch and look around Bath for a day.

At the pub in Bath. Bernie is suitably well behaved under the table – not.

In the meantime Away was being looked after by the good folk at Garcia and the few warranty issues we had found were being corrected – oh and I should mention we ordered a new room for the boat – its a conservatory! Well, its a set of canvas and clears for the outside area to turn it into essentially an outside room.

Yay our new outside room! Perfect for the cooler weather.

All the work gets done on the boat and it is signed off as good to go, Bernie gets put into a kennel for a few days (much to his dismay, but frankly at this point he can take one for the team), and we head back to France for our overnight stay – which is all we have left on our visa!

Driving on to the ferry at Portsmouth bound for Caen. We have only 2 days left on our European visa!

The Channel crossing is our next challenge in Away. We had timed our trip back so that we would have benign or decent weather to get back to the UK. We were planning to sail from Cherbourg to Portland Marina, which is in the harbour which hosted the sailing events for the London Olympics back in 2012. We’d done a recky on the harbour and felt pretty good about it.

We checked out from France at the cop shop in Cherbourg, managed a last minute French grocery shop (wine) and had an early night ready to leave the next day at sparrows fart (I mean 06:00 sharp).

So at 06:30 we left.

It was sad to leave beautiful France, but alas…

And headed out into the inky blackness, leaving the jewellery box of Cherbourg behind us. There are no crab pots in the dark, so we pointed towards our destination, and come what may, in 10 hours we’d be in the UK.

Adrian caught the photo of the day when the sun started rising.

‘Come what may’ was one of the worlds busiest shipping channels, but we played this video game with life (pictured) that looks like some sort of space invaders, except its real big ships and our relatively little boat… We are the black boat shape pointed north – the big ships are the triangle shaped outlines. We navigated this fine. The ships weren’t interested in chatting to us about navigation, which is okay because being quite introverted, we didn’t want to talk to them either (although we did try to be fair).

This is the first channel of west to east traffic, then further north is the east to west channel.

And the 10 hours turned into 11 hours… and then it turned out we messed up the tides and currents, it’ll be 12 hours.

We get our “Q” flag out at the 12 mile mark so that the UK authorities know we have come from another country and need to be checked in. Is a plain yellow flag that we need to fly on the starboard side. This is the first time we have flown this flag.

Once we are checked into the UK, we fly the red ensign flag as that is the appropriate flag for the UK. When we were in France, we flew the French flag on the starboard side, and as we change to subsequent countries, we will fly their flag. It is part of the rules of being a seafarer to fly the courtesy flag of the country you are sailing in. We fly the Australian flag off the stern as Away is registered in Australia. Sydney in fact – even though it has never been there.

Oh yes back to our passage. Sorry everyone… the 10 – 12 hours will actually be 14 hours of motor sailing and getting in just as the world turned dark because we used the wrong information for the strength of the tide – but we got to Portland! And we have learned some good lessons along the way.

Beautiful scenery as we sail along the coast.

I was willing the sun to stay up a little longer as we headed in to the harbour area at Portland.

So the whole family is here! And the authorities say we’re all allowed! Negative PCR tests, and Bernie has been collected from prison.

We’re here in Portland for a few days, and we are planning on changing plans at the moment. As usual.

Getting Away

August 15, 2021 / fiandadrian

By Fi

I’m genuinely not sure that the puns using the boat name are ever going to stop… but I expect they will have to because there are only so many variations using the word “Away” that my brain can compute.

Again, its been a while between posts but for good reason! We got Away! And its been hectic. I’ve taught the boat yard folks doing the handover with us a new phrase – “Drinking from the fire hose” – because that is how it has been feeling.

Our first two days on Away (Thursday and Friday), entailed getting to know the boat a little so we could sleep and cook and do the necessary. We also moved all our belongings (12 boxes plus suitcases) on to the boat and tried to get as much of it put into logical places. Easier said than done when the lockers are all different shapes and sizes, and also there is storage under storage, under beds, under floors etc.

We learned about the systems and did a lot of testing. Then we had the weekend to really unpack and settle in, and take the 25 minute walk to the shops over and over again for supplies, and the supplies we inevitably forget. I promise I will include some nice inside photos in a sec.

Day 3 and 4 were spent on the harbour here in Cherbourg, hoisting sails, testing the single line reefing system on our mail sail (used to reduce the amount of sail for windy conditions), testing the stay sail, the solent and the gennaker. All working so well and we love how the boat sails (thank goodness because prior to now, we didn’t actually know how it sailed).

Here you can see our beautiful red gennaker looking fabulous against the ocean and our black hull.

We also spent time doing some “close quarters manoeuvring” – or in other words, trying not to hit other peoples boats while we try to dock ours.

I was up first for close quarters work, and with the help from Kevin (our handover specialist) I parallel parked the boat a few times, using the bow thruster and getting the feel for the dual rudder system. I wasn’t allowed yet to reverse the boat into our slip, mainly because neither of us had seen it done before, and the space between the dock on one side is about 20cm, and the neighbours boat on the other side is about 20cm, so you can imagine Kevin preferred to show us how it was done, prior to either of us giving it a bash – literally. Apparently this is as tight a slip as we will see anywhere, so if we can reverse into this slip, we’re going to be well set up.

Here is Bernie and I happily looking out for crab pots while I helm on our first day sailing. Needless to say there are no photos of us doing close quarters manoeuvring we’re a little busy (read stressed).

Adrian was up the next day (our last day) to practice some manoeuvring as well, and we had a chance to ask some final questions. Not to be outdone by me, Adrian was this time allowed to reverse the boat into our slip, and did so like a champion. I have dubbed him the official reverse parker of the boat now. To be fair, a few days later I would have my own chance to reverse the boat in and would do so successfully.

Here we are after some successful docking practice. Successful meaning I managed to lasso the cleat on the dock by throwing the docking line over it from the boat while Adrian, driving the boat towards the dock, didn’t hit anything. Oh, and Bernie didn’t jump off the boat mid docking manoeuvre to say hi to everyone. Happy days.

So after completing the final systems check, both of us having helmed, docked and sailed the boat, we signed the paperwork and Away is officially our home. The next few days we spend working with Garcia on a few items that needed correcting (to be expected when building a new boat), fitting out the boat with our safety gear, moving our belongings around and around and around finding the best spots for things, and buying storage boxes – lots of storage boxes.

Again we didn’t think that would make interesting photos so here we are sailing again.

And we buy sheets and plates and storage boxes and towels and cookware and dog food and storage boxes and tools and glasses and baguettes and storage boxes and spices and a board for my magnets and hooks and storage boxes. Tiring stuff!

We also now have a book for the local area and the charts, so looking at the weather, we hope to be out exploring more of France next week or very soon thereafter. It will be excellent to get off the dock. The Fastnet race has been in town and Bernie INSISTS on jumping off and saying hello to every sailor that walks past. Horror for his introverted parents but he is having the best time. A lot of people also want to talk to us about Away and where we are from, if we like France and where we are planning to go. We feel quite popular, but it can get very busy.

Here are some nice photos of the interior and our first few days on the boat – hope you enjoy!

Exploring the Coffs Coast

June 24, 2020 / fiandadrian

By Fi

We arrived in Coffs Harbour International Marina on the 22nd of May, and as of writing this a month later, we’re still enjoying the atmosphere and the weather here in Coffs. We’re in no hurry to move, as the borders are still closed, and we’re waiting for the perfect weather window to head north to Yamba. Both Adrian and I have spent time on the Coffs Coast in the past. Me as a toddler learning how to swim and ride my bike, staying at my grandparents house in Toormina, and Adrian as a young adult training for the Canoe Polo team, and working a part time job when his parents lived near here. We were both keen to see some of the places we knew and loved.

But first, friends! With COVID19 restrictions relaxing a little, we had a welcome visit from some friends! We spent one day with some friends having little boat tours, eating some yummy burgers at the local chargrilled burger place called “Attitude”, and soaking up the warm winter weather with an icecream and going for a walk’along the jetty and foreshores discovering the history of the place. Then another day more friends and more boat tours! Was so great to see people!

“Coffs” was “discovered” by Europeans, namely John Korff, originally as a safe haven in 1847. Soon after, its proximity to fine timber was realised, and given the troubles of getting large logs onto large ships off the beach, a jetty was proposed. The jetty here was completed in 1893 (after a few set backs given the NSW coast’s ability to pick up the waves and winds and storm down on these settlements). Soon after this the walls of the harbour were also constructed, evolving into the marina and harbour we now see. There’s a load more history and well worth the trip here.

We hired some bikes, and took a loop ride around Coffs Creek which was gorgeous, and the next day did the 20km round trip to Boambee Creek, where I spent idealic summers learning to swim, discovering the crabs and fish, going for explorations with my cousins over the railway bridge and out to the scary surf beach. It all seemed a lot smaller now I’m grown. Bernie ran next to Adrian the whole way, and had a swim with us at Boambee Creek, and was still wanting more when we got back to the boat.

The next day we left for a quick trip to Sydney to see family, and on our way back north we couldn’t pass up an opportunity to visit Scotts Head. This is very close to where Adrian’s family lived and we got to catch up with more friends! The beach is off leash and so the doggies had a great time eating sand and chasing balls. We also took Bernie out to visit Eungai Creek Buffalo farm for lunch. Well worth the trip. We had their persian fetta, buffalo lasagne, and a buffalo curry for lunch, and took home some milk (which is delightfully creamy), extra feta and some steaks. So freaking yummy.

So then we were back in comfy warm Coffs, settling in to a routine of dog walking, boat jobs and making some yummy food with our haul from Sydney and the Buffalo farm. Here’s Bernie and I enjoying the off leash area at Coffs Creek. We still have his floating fetch things (“bumpers”) from when we were trying to teach him to be a proper gun dog. Given we all failed at gun dog stuff, the bumpers make great fetch toys. The Sunday marina markets here are excellent and we’ve loved the fresh veges, macadamia nut spread, pickled garlic, cured meats, bananas and avos. Adrian’s also taken some time to connect our AIS (the system that means we can see other boats and they can see us) to our old, but big VHF antenna, make the outside speakers work with the VHF radio and also install me a new magnet board so I can collect magnets because I love it, and I don’t know why – but every place we go I get a magnet, for years now. I have hundreds and just started a new board for our cruise.

After all the land based travelling, both of us were keen to get out on to the water again, and so we planned a nice day to sail out to South Solitary Island to do a loop and take a look. The island, whilst not overly “remote” (you can see it from land easily) would have been a harsh place to live when people were occupying it. The shore is basically sheer cliffs all around, and to get people and goods onto the island, they had to pick calm seas and also build a large crane, the remnants of which still remain. Now, if there is work to be done, or the rare tourist is booked to visit the island, a helicopter is used. The island has a lighthouse, and it is the lighthouse keeper and their families that occupied this island for almost 100 years up until 1975 when the lighthouse was automated. It is a very special marine sanctuary as well, and given how it is fed from the East Coast Australian Current, contains a variety of temperate, sub tropical and tropical species. We saw a green sea turtle and numerous whales and birds on our quick trip.

Speaking of protect marine areas, the Coffs Harbour Marina is also a protected area, and there are strict rules on fishing and pollution in the marina. These rules have meant that on our little walks out of the marina we have seen an abundance of marine life in the clear marina waters. We have seen spotted eagle rays, mullet, bream, mangrove jacks, flathead, dolphins and a bunch of colourful tropical looking fish that I wouldn’t hazard a guess of the name. Apparently wobbegong sharks also frequent the marina. We never could get a good photo, so here is a beautiful sunset.

We also took time out to visit the botanic gardens. Once a dilapidated landfill site, the place has been transformed into a wonderland of landscaped gardens and plants from all over the world. I was particularly in love with the super healthy roses, and Adrian took this fantastic picture of an upturned tree. There was even a family connection as John Wriggly (Adrian’s mothers cousin) created the original design for the botanic gardens in 1979.

Every day we are planning our trip to Yamba by checking the weather in PredictWind (our weather program). It will be a longish day – about 12 hours, and we need to time it perfectly to get through the Yamba bar at the best time of tide, which is 3 hours after low tide. This is when the waters are at their best to navigate over the sand bar, and into the Clarence river. Coffs has treated us so well, and I can see why we so easily spent a whole month here!

Newcastle for a while

May 7, 2020 / fiandadrian

By Fi

We arrived at the Newcastle Crusing Yacht Club marina at about 6PM on the 27th April. We were pretty tired after a big day in conflicting seas, so put the boat to bed, had a nice hot shower and some take away Thai food – and a beer.

We would spend the next 8 days tucked up in this lovely marina, exploring Newcastle and naturally, doing boat jobs. Here we are safely in our berth.

While in Newcastle, we went for some pretty big walks. I never realised how lovely Newcastle was. I grew up not far away in the northern most suburbs of Sydney, and always perceived Newcastle to be an industrial town dedicated to big ships and coal. What we discovered was a gorgeous city with amazing coffee and food (OMG the oysters), beautiful views and ocean pools, and parks and gardens to walk through.

The “Bogey Hole” (shown here) is a super cool ocean pool built by convicts around 1819 for Major James Morrisett, the Commandant of Newcastle at the time. It was of course unfortunately closed due to COVID19 (as were the beaches, museum and most shops).

We took a long walk to a chandlery (about an hour each way) to get a new fresh water pump as ours had packed it in completely just before we left Pittwater. It was a cheap water pump and therefore we replaced it with something more robust. And in particularly exciting news, I had a tea cosy made by the wonderful Alie Jane designs so my tea in the mornings stays warm in the pot. I’m rather beside myself with happiness for such a simple improvement! Plus its cute.

We chose to stay in Newcastle for longer than we had planned (and enjoy hot showers), as just after we arrived, the winds picked up to gusts between 20-35 knots for a few days, and once that calmed down, the seas were up to almost 4m which in our sized boat isn’t really an option to be going out in (for us, for now anyways). We started planning out leaving time once we saw the swells were due to drop. We still want to head north so that we can get into QLD as soon as we are able to when the border opens. With that in mind, we mapped out some options for a few north heading trips, the first one being to Port Stephens. So, after some preparations and provisioning we left at 9AM on the 6th May, dancing around a couple of freighters as we exited the port.

Military jets buzzed along the coast at low level heading to nearby Williamstown airfield. Adrian captured this absolutely stunning shot of two low flying jets passing overhead.

We arrived in Port Stephens to a welcoming party of a pod of dolphins! We elected to enter at low tide as time leaving Newcastle coincided with this, and also we knew then the tide would be coming in so if we were to touch bottom, we’d eventually be lifted off. As it were, following the lead lights that guide vessels in to port, and then following the marked channel, keeping a good lookout and checking the chart and chart plotters, we made it in with no issues and no anxiety. Future port entries up the coast will be over bars, and so we will be planning things differently for them.

We have chosen to stay at a mooring in a place called “Fame Cove” which is a lovely protected area. Now that we are here, we will review our plans to head north based on the presiding weather conditions at sea. We’d like to go to Broughton Island, as well as get the chance to look around Port Stephens.