Leaving Porto we stay close to the coast. Its unusual for us as we prefer relax a bit further off the coast where the wind is often more consistent, there is less fishing gear to avoid and less hard bits to hit. But along this coast the local orcas have a habit of breaking yacht rudders and staying in shallow water has been shown to reduce the risk of meeting them.
It looks a long way but we were usually only a mile or two from the beach
First stop Aveiro. We heard the Port Authority on the VHF radio chastise the yacht at in front for not calling the port before entry, and quickly announced ourselves on the radio. The current runs hot along the channel and we guess they want to be extra careful with commercial shipping entering the ports narrow channel. Most other ports ignore us if we call.
Aveiro has a canal system for moving tourists around the town in cute gondolas with large four stroke outboards.Washing window is usually hung out the windowTiles. All tiles and more tiles. There are also flamingos here, but we just saw pigeons.We had to try the local desertsLots of sugary eggy goodness
We had a good sail down the coast to Figueira da Foz, but the wind finally died to 7 knots as we approached the last headland. WE motored as it was only 30 minutes to the port entrance. Suddenly we had 17 knots again and up went the staysail. But it was 25 knots by the time the sail was set, and then 30 knots and time for another reef in the main and then 35 knots and our 30 minute trip was down to 10 minutes as we sped across the bay. We saw 40 knots before the wind dropped away to 2 knots at the harbour entrance. An educational way to finish the day.
The winds increasing. Should be a great sail across the bay..15 seconds later it was looking a little busier. We didn’t manage to take any more photos after this one.Figueira was a popular beach resort with several beaches to choose from. We stocked up at the local market and headed south.
Of the top 11 biggest waves ever surfed (all greater than 70 feet), 8 were surfed at Nazare. Maybe Away could catch a wave at the point and break our speed record.
Our chart gave a clue as what made the huge waves. There is a huge canyon system just off the coast that funnels Atlantic swells onto Nazare.Alas all was flat at the take-off point todayEveryone had gone to the beach instead
We decided to take the funicular up the hill to the Big Wave museum on a warm sunny day.
Riding the funicular, Bernie got his own special dog place,But he complained that he should have a full person chair on the way back down, so Fi explained the options to him…The view back along to the beach to the north. When we sailed along the coast we could see people on their surf safaris parking their modern day combi vans at all the best breaks.A few streets back from the main beach we came across a cafe making simple fresh food.The local cat community saw Bernie coming and kept a low profile
Our prevailing northerly wind was not forecast to return for a week so we decided to visit Lisbon by road and managed to hire a car for the trip.
First stop the picturesque hill top town ObidosCoach loads of tourists, but also quiet lanes away from the main streetsDog sign in postRooftop viewsWe took the opportunity for a posh meal in Lisbon…suitably shinyBernie spotted a yellow funicular and wondered if he could have a real person seat?Lisbon had a different feel to Porto. A little more formal perhaps.People were queuing to go into this strange looking building so we took a picture of it.When it got too hot to sight see, we found the hotel gave us access to next doors pool…As the temperature fell, we watched the sunset over Lisbon with a glass of wine and a belligerent spaniel who just wanted to go homeOn the trip back to Nazare, Fi navigated us through smaller and smaller villages until we came upon a winery on a hillOur happy place
Next time we return to Nazare and discover if the wind has returned…
We left Baiona for the short hop into Portugal. First stop Viana do Castelo.
New country smile! Neither of us had been to Portugal.As we approached the breakwater at Viana do Castelo we could see all these pretty kites racing up and down on the other side. We had little wind, but on the other side there was a concerning amount of breeze fueling a very active wind sports community.A little way along the river the wind had largely died at the visitors pontoon.
By coincidence, our handstand teacher from Newtown in Australia was living in Viana do Castelo and he suggested discovering an old monastery in the surrounding hills.
It didn’t take Bernie long to find the ruinsIt looked like a movie setIts been a while since it was in use
As we were staying for a few days to meet up with our Newtown friends we moved Away to the inner harbour, next to a big white ship that was now a museum. The Gil Eannes had served as a hospital and resupply ship to the Portuguese cod fishing fleet in the North Atlantic.
They were lucky to have such a good looking boat parked next doorThe Gil Eannes had wards for sick mariners, sick officers, contagious people as well as a lab, an operating theatre and even an x-ray room.We visited our handstand teacher and tried not to mention how few handstands we have done since leaving Sydney (he’s the older one)
Next stop Porto. We arrived at dusk and found ourselves a parking spot in a marina that largely served tourist boats and the large river cruising boats that ply the inland waterways.
All the streets in Porto are steep leading down to the river. We managed to photograph the only flat one…
A half day tour from Porto took us to the Duoro valley, a famous wine making region.
The scenery was spectacular and the architecture distinctly Portuguese, but the aridness and gum trees reminded us of Australia. Portugal took gum trees from Australia in the 19th century for pulp production and they are now a common sight. We may have neglected to mention how well they burn and they now have a significant bush fire problem, or a market for bush fire expertise depending on how you look at it.
We visited a small (7000 bottle a year) vineyard that had been in the family for 6 generations. They only supplied to a few local restaurants and Australian tourists who enthusiastically sample way too much wine.
If you happen to be there at the right time of year you can help crush the grapes in these stone tubs putting your own personal stamp on the vintage.How often do you get to hug the man who makes your wine? He spoke no English and we no Portuguese but we soon connected over google translate and a little vinho tintoBack in Porto we visit one of the street BBQ restaurants in the old town where stern old ladies grill your lunch in the midday heat.Yummy fresh fish straight off the BBQ!
We were told by a local that Porto is the true heart of Portugal, and Lisbon is more part of Africa. Next time we discover if is Lisbon’s heritage for ourselves and we search for big waves in Nazare…
Join Fi, Adrian and Bernie as we adventure where the wind takes us.
