We left you on a particularly rolly morning at Bornholm Island. We were still protected from the wind, but the swells were bending round the headland and across the bay. It must have been bad to get us underway at 5:30am.
North of us was a stretch of open water leading to the Swedish coast around Karlskrona. As we approached the coast we passed the small island and harbour of Utklippan. We considered stopping for the night, but over 10 masts in a small surgy harbour put us off.
North of Utklippan is the area where the cold war ‘Whiskey on the Rocks’ incident occurred. One morning in 1981 a fisherman noticed a Soviet whiskey class submarine parked on the rocks where there wasn’t usually one. The soviets claimed it was parked there due to a navigation error. We weren’t sure if we should be proud or concerned that our navigation was more accurate than a nuclear submarine.
The anchorage we had chosen had several boats tied up to the rocks and enough room for us to anchor in deeper water. The next day after all the other boats had gone and no one was watching, we practiced mooring up to the rocks. This involves throwing a spare anchor off the back as you approach the rocks, driving the bow towards the rocks and stopping 10cm before impact so the person on the bow can run along the bowsprit and launch themselves onto the rocks with hammer, peg and a bow line in hand. They quickly hammer a peg in a rock fissure and secure the bow. Then you tug on the stern anchor line, which is hopefully not caught on the propeller, and secure the boat far enough from the rocks that its not touching, but close enough that one can step onto the rock, with BBQ in one hand and esky in the other.
The forecast for the next day was for solid travelling winds on the beam. We followed the narrow channel out to the coast and headed north towards Kalmar. There were plenty of other boats with the same plan and we avoided most of the traffic a bit further off the coast.
We were now in the land of Volvos and took the opportunity for a quick engine service before moving on up the coast. This area of coast has so many islands that its not hard to find a beautiful place to stop.
The anchorage we had picked was jam packed full with two other boats, so we continued on to look for somewhere quieter. We had been warned it could be busy in July and August.
Next day was another sailing day to the southern end of the Stockholm archipelago. Fi had picked out a secret anchorage with a hidden shallow entrance that we hoped might deter less intrepid sailors.
The anchorage was empty, sheltered and with good holding. We decided to stay a while.
After a relaxing few days we started the final journey into Stockholm. Unlike the approach to most ports, Stockholm is surrounded by a complex archipelago with many low bridges and narrow channels. We reached the outer islands and discovered our chosen anchorage had 50 boats in it! Fortunately the surrounding bays provided some quieter anchorages.
